All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
How I Made Kids' Crampons that Fit Small Feet and are Truly Climbing-Worth
Ice climbing. Snow couloir climbing. Even mixed climbing. My kids want to do it all, but off-the-shelf crampons can't fit on their small feet. Here's how I took advantage of the new trend in modular crampon manufacturing to make some crampons that I'd be willing to wear but fit on my kids and work with their limited boot options.
I Had Climber's Elbow. I Don't Have Pain Anymore; and Two Years Later, It Hasn't Come Back
I've had elbow pain: climber's elbow and golfer's elbow. After clinicians helped me get an exercise routine in place, I wanted to share how I got through the pain and how I've stopped the pain from coming back.
Sometimes We Just Hike: A Quick Film Showing the Virtues of Simple Family Hiking
We are teaching our kids about climbing, and they love it. They also enjoy snow and ice climbing. While these activities come with a high sense of accomplishment, they also come with higher risks. Sometimes, we like to get out and simply enjoy the views and the company. Hiking helps keep us sane.
5 Knots for Climbing Up and Rappelling Down
Before I took my kids rock climbing on their first multi-pitch route, I wanted to make sure they had the skills for getting up the route but also the skills for rappelling (abseiling) down if weather or other circumstances forced a retreat. Part of that education was learning to tie a figure eight retrace (follow through), clove hitch, girth hitch (larksfoot), figure eight on a bight, and an autoblock hitch, which are key to their climbing and rappelling systems. Here's how we tie and most frequently use these five knots.
Kids on 3000' of Rock Climbing: Some Less-Discussed Things I Shared with New Multi-Pitch Climbers
There are lots of important safety practices that go into multi-pitch climbing: building good anchors, swapping or blocking leads, efficient rope management, safety practices like first and second pieces of protection off the anchor, etc. This stuff is well covered, nuanced, and - yes - important. They have to be understood and practiced. But after doing two 1500 foot climbs with two 7 year old kids, I noticed a few other things that these two new multi-pitch climbers also needed to spend some attention on. Maybe it will help those who are new to multi-pitch climbing.
Single Strand Method to Transition from Climbing to Lowering at an Anchor With Narrow Hardware
Any time you change systems in a vertical environment, you are inviting risk and therefore potential consequences. Switching from climbing up a rock climb to lowering down is one of those circumstances. And then there is the added complexity of different anchor setups requiring different steps in that transition process. This video goes through the process of both cleaning an anchor and direct lowering when coming to a two-bolt anchor with narrow fixed hardware such as tightly linked chains.
Bight of Rope Method to Transition from Climbing to Lowering at a Links or Rappel Rings Anchor
Often the riskiest part of sport climbing is the transition at the top of the climb from leading to lowering. Different anchors require different steps in that transition in order to stay safe and backed-up in case something goes wrong. This video goes through the process of both cleaning an anchor and direct lowering when coming to a two-bolt anchor with rappel rings or links.
Cleaning an Anchor and Transitioning from Climbing to Lowering Off with Mussy Hooks
Potentially, the transition from climbing to lowering can be the most dangerous part of sport climbing. Setting up a system without any additional eyes to check your work increases the danger, and facing different permanent hardware setups means we need to know how to manage those scenarios. This video walks through how to safely transition from at the top of a climb when facing two mussy hooks, both when cleaning an anchor or when lowering directly.
How to Safely Set Up a Top Rope Climbing Anchor on Two Bolts While on Lead
Transitioning from climbing up to being lowered down can be simple or can be tricky, depending upon the hardware you find at the anchor bolts. It can get even more complicated if you are putting in a top rope anchor for climbers to use after you. Here's how to manage this transition safely.
A Mental Checklist to Stay Safe While Leading Sport Climbing
Our kids just completed their first sport climbing leads and their first multi-pitch climbs. We are continuing to shed some light on how we got ourselves and our kids ready so that they could make those advances in their climbing journeys. Today, we are talking about the mental checklist we impart to any new sport climbing leaders to make sure they were staying as safe as possible when up on the sharp end of the rope.
Getting New Rock Climbers Ready for Sport Lead Climbing
Our kids hit a few rock climbing milestones, this year, putting up their first sport climbing leads and completing their first multi-pitch climbs as seconds. Today, we are sharing how the kids progressed in skills and how we gave them exposure to some of the different demands of climbing so that we all felt comfortable letting them head up on lead.
How to Set Fun and Skill Building Routes on Your Home Climbing Wall
A lot of home climbing walls go unused, often because the routes get stale and boring. Here's how I've approached setting routes for the climbers in my family so that we can always feel like the routes we have on the wall are helping us become better climbers while also being fun!
Rock Features, Grips, and Moves: Climbing Terms for New Rock Climbers
To get better at any endeavor, we need a way to talk about it. New rock climbers are not an exception. In this video, we describe and name some basic rock features, grip and foot placement types, and rock climbing techniques. This rock climbing vocabulary will help new climbers discuss their climbing with others, hopefully stimulating help, collaboration, and improvement.
Climbing Commands You NEED to Know for Safe Climbing
Communication between climbing partners is a fundamental part of maintaining safety. Surprises create risk because you can't plan for things you can't anticipate. Solid communication can reduce surprises. Before attempting nuanced multi-partner, multi-pitch, or complicated alpine climbs, here's how we taught the new climbers in our family - our kids - good communication while working comparatively simply top rope climbs. These communication habits will form the foundation of a lifetime of safe climbing.
Teaching Kids to Belay: A Progression of Learning While Maintaining Safety
Our kids are young and very into rock climbing. Our philosophy has always been to empower them, and that demands they take on increasing responsibilities for safety as they become ready. If they have always been partners in keeping themselves safe they will more likely continue to be safety conscious as they enjoy a lifetime of climbing. One major milestone in that climbing journey is learning proper top rope belaying. This is how we taught our young kids how to top rope belay while ensuring we kept everyone safe along the way.
What's on In My Climbing Rack? Climbing Gear that I Take on Every Climb
While the choice about taking ice screws or nuts or cams or pickets will always depend on route conditions and the route, itself, there are a few items that I take climbing on every trip, whether dry rock, snow, or ice, whether at the crag, in the alpine, or on a glacier. This gear helps me deal with any eventuality from standard climbing needs to terrain beyond my free climbing ability, to rescues.
South African Rappel (Abseil): When and How to Use This Emergency Rappel When Climbing
The South African Rappel or South African Abseil is a technique that can get you down a single-pitch cliff using nothing but a rope when out climbing, scrambling, or even hiking. When and why would you use this rappel technique? How do you perform the rappel, safely? We provide answers to these questions in this video.
74 Year Old Grandpa's First Alpine Climb: Three Generations Go Climbing
My Dad was one of my original partners for summiting peaks. Now at 74 years old, we had him out on a new summit experience, doing some technical climbing with his son and grandsons on Horsetooth Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Blue Ice Choucas Pro Harness Review for Alpine Climbing, Alpine Scrambles, and Multi-Pitch Climbing
Blue Ice produces some excellent minimalist and ultralight gear for alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. This video reviews the Choucas Pro harness and discusses the pros and cons as well as some climbing genres where the harness may excel.
Inov8 Roclite G 315 GTX Review When Used for Hiking, Backpacking, and Alpine Scrambling
Inov8 is a company with a tradition in fell running: moving over the wet mountains of the LaKe District in the UK. I've been wearing the Inov8 Roclite G 315 GTX shoes for several years, and have put them to the test on fastmoving hiking trips, fully laden backpacking trips, and even alpine climbs that demand rock scrambling. Here's my review of this versatile shoe.