All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
Passing Through: Four Days, Four Passes, and a Family of Four Backpacking on the Colorado Trail
I don't feel like my family and I should be pushing our limits with hard climbing all of the time. We had previously done a video about learning to find satisfaction with some of the less demanding forms of adventure so that our risk profiles aren't always high. Well, exposing the boys to backpacking was one of those experiences we wanted them to try and see if they enjoy. We made a short film about it.
Orienting Climbing Carabiners at Your Anchor: the Finer Points
Early in my climbing career, a mentor told me "...now we need you to start thinking about the 'working end' of your carabiners." He was talking about orienting my carabiners to maximize efficiency and safety. This video takes two case studies, attaching our carabiners to our anchor points and attaching ourselves to the anchor, to go into some of the subtleties of carabiner orientation.
To Face In or Face Out on a Downclimb? Rock Climbing and Scrambling Fundamentals
Downclimbing is an important skill for anyone who climbs outdoors. It is downright necessary for those who "scramble" on ridges or other terrain that typically doesn't use ropes. There are times where it feels self-evident to face in towards the rock, and there are times where it feels very comfortable to face away from the rock. But what about those times when it isn't obvious? Here's how I think about deciding to face in or away.
Between Pitching and Free Solo Climbing "Easier" Terrain, Part IV: Short-Pitching
I think it's a false choice that we can either "climb quickly but with high risk by soloing" or "climb slowly but with low risk by using a rope" when we are on terrain that is well within our abilities. This is part of a short series on some techniques that allow us to use a rope to mitigate risk on moderate terrain without burning through time the way fully-pitched climbing sometimes demands. This fourth video covers short-pitching.
Between Pitching and Free Solo Climbing "Easier" Terrain, Part III: Simul-Climbing
I think it's a false choice that we can either "climb quickly but with high risk by soloing" or "climb slowly but with low risk by using a rope" when we are on terrain that is well within our abilities. This is part of a short series on some techniques that allow us to use a rope to mitigate risk on moderate terrain without burning through time the way fully-pitched climbing sometimes demands. This third video covers simul-climbing.
Between Pitching and Free Solo Climbing "Easier" Terrain, Part II: Terrain and Body Belays
I think it's a false choice that we can either "climb quickly but with high risk by soloing" or "climb slowly but with low risk by using a rope" when we are on terrain that is well within our abilities. This is part of a short series on some techniques that allow us to use a rope to mitigate risk on moderate terrain without burning through time the way fully-pitched climbing sometimes demands. This, our second video in the series, covers terrain and body belays.
Between Pitching and Free Solo Climbing "Easier" Terrain, Part I: Thinking About Bringing a Rope
I think it's a false choice that we can either "climb quickly but with high risk by soloing" or "climb slowly but with low risk by using a rope" when we are on terrain that is well within our abilities. This is a start of a short series on some techniques that allow us to use a rope to mitigate risk on moderate terrain without burning through time the way fully-pitched climbing sometimes demands. Our first decision is if we should bring a rope along at all or if we should just "scramble" a route. Here is how I think about that decision.
Two Eight Year Olds Go Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing with Dad
We've done a few series on techniques I think are important for any climber taking on multi-pitch routes but especially for a climber out with children. Well, it was time to put those skills to practice as we broke from climbing with two adults per kid and tried out two kids with one adult. This short film shares our beautiful afternoon out on the rock.
Three Ways to Lower a Climber Off of a Plaquette (Auto-Blocking Tube) Device
There are a few reasons why a climbing team may choose to lower the first climber down rather than have them rappel. There are times you might need to perform a short lower during the climb up but also might use lowers for entire sections of the descent. For different needs, different lowering techniques might be appropriate. Here's three different ways.
How to Multi-Pitch Rappel (Abseil) on Two Ropes and Considerations if Using Single Ropes or Taglines
As my climbing objectives got more technical, so did the probability of me needing to perform many rappels (abseils) down large faces to get off a route. Here is the procedure I was taught when using two climbing ropes along with how the procedure may change if using a single rope or a single rope with a tagline.
Overcoming the Fear of Rappelling in New Climbers: Lessons from My Kids
I've instructed a lot of new climbers, but teaching your kids to climb puts what works and what doesn't into stark relief. Here's why and how I approached teaching rappelling to my kids, helping them overcome the natural fear that comes from easing yourself over a cliff.
Tossing a Climbing Rope for Rappel (Abseil): Three Ways for Three Conditions
Cleanly throwing your ropes down a pitch for a rappel can mean the difference between a safe and efficient retreat from a face and a potential epic (or worse). If you have increasing winds or terrain below you that is likely to catch a thrown rope, you may need to use different techniques for getting the ropes down. Here are three ways we get our rappel ropes to the bottom to deal with increasingly severe challenges to a clean toss.
Stubborn: An 8 Month Indoor Climbing Project and Training for Twin 8-Year-Olds
Our home wall overhangs at thirty degrees. After graduating from jugs, the boys wanted a challenge and so asked for me to set a route on twenty millimeter edges. When the route proved too difficult for them to make easy progress, rather than ask me to change it, they asked for a training plan and expressed a desire to learn how to project a route. Eventually, they were able to climb the route on lead. This short movie documents the eight months they spent training and working the route.
How to Transition from Rappelling on Two Climbing Ropes to Ascending the Ropes
When climbing multiple pitches, you may end up having to perform multiple rappels. That adds in risks such as rappelling off route, past the anchor, or getting ropes stuck as you pull them. Any of these scenarios may demand that you ascend the rappelling ropes. This video demonstrates how to switch from rappelling to ascending when you are using two strands on rappel.
A No-Gear Rappel Anchor: How and Why to Use an Equivocation Hitch
You've run out of anchor gear, or you have damaged ropes, or you need to stay tied into the climbing rope, or... or... or; there are some compelling reasons to use an equivocation hitch for a rappel, and it can be done safely with a single rope or with doubles or with a tagline, but you better construct it correctly.
Are You Choosing the Right Climbing Rope? Pros and Cons of Taglines and Double (or Twin) Ropes
IIf you ever have to retreat from a multi-pitch climb, you may want to rappel (or abseil) full rope lengths to reduce the total number of rappels you need to do. That's why having taglines or sets of double or twin ropes often make a lot of sense for big climbs. But what are the pros and cons of these rope choices in terms of use and demands they make of our anchors and systems?
Reframing Adventure to Help Me Balance Risks in Life and Climbing
It's Mental Health Awareness Month so we are discussing some of the mental aspects of adventuring. Climbing is dangerous. I think it can be done safely, but that shouldn't be read as "perfectly safe." This is especially true of alpine and high altitude climbing, which are my preferred styles and which come with more complex, objective dangers. So, I think a lot about how to keep my personal risk profile manageable, and one way I do that is to diversify my outdoor activities.
What Stands Out About the Climbing Partners I Turn to Again and Again?
It's Mental Health Awareness Month so we are discussing some of the mental aspects of adventuring. When my climbing partners and I climb for similar reasons, there are a host of advantages. This often overlooked factor in finding compatible climbing partners that stands out, to me, as the most distinguishing factor between a good climbing partner and a great one.
How the Feedback Trap Hampers Risk Management in Climbing and Outdoor Adventures
It's Mental Health Awareness Month so we are discussing some of the mental aspects of adventuring. We've all heard, "climbing is an inherently risky activity," and we do our best to understand and manage those risks. But we also sometimes don't notice when we've "gotten lucky," How do we assess our climbs when we can't always really know how far away or close we were to disaster?
Teaching Kids Risk Assessment for Climbing and for Life
It's Mental Health Awareness Month so let's get into some of the mental aspects of adventuring. A good part of our channel is about helping get whole families - and that includes the kids - into the outdoors. That brings risk. But learning to assess risky adventures, like climbing, can translate to day-to-day life. This video offers a simple framework to help us talk with our kids about risk.