Another discussion that seems to get climbers strangely combative is the decision to clove hitch into an anchor or to use a personal anchor system, or PAS. Well, like most things, there are tradeoffs. Let's get into several of those tradeoffs which might tilt you to using one or the other system in a given situation.

Climbers seem to get overly heated up when talking about things like using the rope to make our anchors or using slings, runners, or cords. Well, like most things, there are tradeoffs. Let's get into several of those tradeoffs along with some of the uses cases where I might use one solution over another.

When we build a climbing haul system, we will not be able to escape at least some friction in that system. A major point of friction will be at the progress capture connection, which helps hold the load strand so that we don't accidentally let back out any of the rope we've hauled in. Here's a comparison across different progress capture options to help inform which are more or less efficient.

There's a lot to think about when we are parents with climbing kids or are transitioning from being a climber who is looked after to one who is looking after others. One of the key activities we do in these roles is setting top rope anchors. So, here's one scenario where we set an anchor on the other side of a ledge. This is how I might keep myself safe while setting the anchor and how I make sure the anchor will keep the climbers safe when climbing.

There are times we want to tie off a belay to keep our climber temporarily safe as we go hands free. Here are four different methods for tying off a tube-style plaquette device along with how those methods compare across certain scenarios.

Icy climbing ropes. Thin ropes. Extra weight on the rappel. There are multiple reasons why we might want to add additional friction into our rappel (abseil) system. Here are three options for when we are rappelling on a plaquette (tube-style with guide mode option) device.

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Once we get to the climber, potentially their size and their injuries might dictate how to position them as we head down. Here are three options.

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. Here's how I worked around this issue when I was routinely climbing with climbers who were lighter than I am.

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. Here's an alternative first step that frees us from the belay so that we can get help or get another rope in place to get us to our climber in need.

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. Here's how we can identify if we will potentially have an issue.

In a single pitch scenario, with a belay coming from the ground either to a leader or a top roping climber, we can still end up with an injured climber on the wall who needs medical attention or assistance getting down. The pick off gets us up to the climber and gets both of us back down again. Here is the procedure when using a tube-style plaquette belay device.

In a single pitch scenario, with a belay coming from the ground either to a leader or a top roping climber, we can still end up with an injured climber on the wall who needs medical attention or assistance getting down. The pick off gets us up to the climber and gets both of us back down again. Here is the procedure when using a Grigri or similar assisted braking belay device.

Climbing in a team of two is quite often done on a standard, single rope. But when we are climbing multi-pitch routes with certain risks, there may be times when twin ropes or half ropes may help mitigate those risks. And certain alpine or mountaineering objectives may emphasize weight and rope management characteristics. Here's how I go about assessing the climb and matching it to a rope system.

When I go out climbing with my twin boys, climbing as a team of three, I need to match my climbing rope choice to the risks of the particular climb. Here's how I go about assessing the climb and matching it to a rope system.

We often carefully choose the right rack, the right shoes, and the right clothing for our climbs. Well, we also want to choose the right rope. Here's some tradeoffs to consider when selecting a single rope, half ropes, twin ropes, or a single rope with a tagline for our route and objective.

We often carefully choose the right rack, the right shoes, and the right clothing for our climbs. Well, we also want to choose the right rope. Here's some tradeoffs to consider when selecting a single rope, half ropes, twin ropes, or a single rope with a tagline for our route and objective.

Climbing rope manufacturers publish a lot of numbers that describe how the rope will perform out in the field. But the numbers don't actually tell as straight forward of a story as we may wish. Here's how we interpret those numbers and how they tell a story about the types of climbing risks one rope may mitigate better than another.

Adding on to our videos about crevasse rescue, we could have a situation where we set up a haul only to discover, after making contact with the victim, that we actually need to lower them, as there is a walk out possible from lower in the crevasse. Well, if we have a pully-and-cam based progress capture like a Petzl Micro Traxion already set up, we need to switch from raise to lower, and there could be some complications we need to consider.

Self arrest is a very necessary climbing skill if we are on moderate angled snow slopes like snow-filled gullies, or couloirs, or ridge walks above sloping mountain faces. That technique, at its best, demands proper use of an ice axe, but if we don't have or have dropped our axe, we shouldn't just give up. As a last-ditch effort to avoid having a slip become a fall, here are three techniques that don't require an ice axe.

If we decide that end roping may be the right method for taking on moderately technical snow terrain on a climb, we may want to pack one axe more than we have climbers. It offers up some flexibility in deploying our end roping system. Here's why and how.