All blogs

Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post

How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Improve Climber Communication with Extended Master Points On Moderate Terrain

The kind of blocky, ledgy terrain that we often see on moderate climbs presents both ample natural protection points as well as communication and rope abrasion challenges. Well, we can use the former to help mitigate against the later. Here are a few different methods for extending a belay stance and master point out when faced with a comparatively safe, but large and communication hindering, ledge.

Read More
How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Six Tips for a Safer Counterbalance Rappel

If we feel the need to get down from a climb quickly, we may be tempted to employ a counterbalance rappel. That rappel technique does allow two rappels, simultaneously, so it is faster, but it adds risks that we need to mitigate. Here are six tips that will mitigate those risks.

Read More
How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Descending a Taut Climbing Rope: Moving Down on Friction Hitches

If we have a climbing rope loaded below us (maybe a climber is unconscious and weighting the rope), we may not be able to attach our rappel device, or even if our device was attached before the rope got loaded, being on a "fireman's belay" might keep us from moving down. Here is how we can descend a rope when it is pulled tight below us.

Read More
Family Dynamics, How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski Family Dynamics, How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Teaching New Climbers the Climbing Project Mindset

We introduced our kids to "projecting" a climbing route when they first started confronting routes they had considerable difficulty with. While there are many tactics that can help, we began their education by focusing on the climb at three levels of progressive detail and then setting a mindset that helped redefine success criteria based on which level of detail we were focused on for a particular attempt.

Read More
Family Dynamics, How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski Family Dynamics, How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Learning to Lead Belay Takes More Than Learning the Mechanics

There is a lot of time and attention spent on climbing well and the climbing mindset, but what about the belayer? Particularly when on lead, belaying a climber can also be stressful, especially for those just starting out. How do we create a safe place to learn in a situation where mistakes aren’t normally acceptable? Here’s how we approached getting our new climbers (our kids) to lead belay.

Read More
How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Crossing Crevasses Safely: Three Techniques

When a crevasse is unavoidable and must be crossed on your glaciated mountain climb, the technique you and your team employ will often be dictated by circumstances. This video gets into three different procedures to be chosen and applied based on terrain slopes and crevasse sizes.

Read More
How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Using a "Running Belay" to Simul-Climb on a Glacier has Pros and Cons

A “running belay,” a form of simul-climbing that is frequently used on snow climbs and climbs up glaciated peaks, helps mitigate certain risks, but it also adds new risks into the equation. Let’s talk about how a running belay is performed and what pros and cons result from employing this climbing tactic so that we can best decide when it may make sense to use.

Read More
How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Spacing, Coils, and Brake Knots to Determine Glacier Travel Climbing Rope Length

Deciding how much climbing rope you need for glacier travel is a product of many factors. The number of teammates, the snow conditions, crevasse sizes, and preferred rescue systems are all inputs into how much space to have between climbers, how much length to keep in spare coils, and whether to have brake knots in the rope. All of that will calculate out to your total rope length. Let’s explore some of these considerations.

Read More
How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Matching Climbing Systems to Glacier Travel Specifics to Reduce Risk

As we get deeper into a glacier travel series, we want to note that there are many effective ways to develop our climbing systems for safe passage on glaciated mountains. Maybe the single biggest thing we can do wrong, however, is get dogmatic about those systems and assume that, while risks change from glacier to glacier, our systems don't have to change as well.

Read More
How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Choosing the Best Carabiner for Connecting to a Rope on a Glacier Climb

We will frequently choose to connect ourselves to the climbing rope with a carabiner, rather than a knot, when on a glacier in order to facilitate things like crevasse rescue systems. We need to be considerate of the strengths and weaknesses of carabiner types in order to select the best carabiner for our climb of a glaciated peak. Here's some of the criteria I use to help me choose.

Read More