Our adventures… our stories
Apex Trips
An “apex” trip is a kind of ‘this is a big goal for us parents or for the kids’ type of trip.
We've done a few series on techniques I think are important for any climber taking on multi-pitch routes but especially for a climber out with children. Well, it was time to put those skills to practice as we broke from climbing with two adults per kid and tried out two kids with one adult. This short film shares our beautiful afternoon out on the rock.
Our home wall overhangs at thirty degrees. After graduating from jugs, the boys wanted a challenge and so asked for me to set a route on twenty millimeter edges. When the route proved too difficult for them to make easy progress, rather than ask me to change it, they asked for a training plan and expressed a desire to learn how to project a route. Eventually, they were able to climb the route on lead. This short movie documents the eight months they spent training and working the route.
My Dad was one of my original partners for summiting peaks. Now at 74 years old, we had him out on a new summit experience, doing some technical climbing with his son and grandsons on Horsetooth Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park.
A climbing partner from Denali (seven years ago) put together a trip for the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran (12,605') in Grand Teton National Park. She and I embraced hiking the long approach, bushwhack off trail, and 6000 feet of elevation gain to get our fill of summer snow climbing on a direct and impressive line.
Spring time in the Rocky Mountains means snow couloir season for climbers, and this year, we figured out how to get technical crampons to work on the boys' small feet. So, the boys and I took a short camping trip that culminated in their first real alpine snow climb, including a few small snow fields before a 500 vertical foot gully. They learned the mental and physical persistence that direct snow lines can demand, and I was admittedly in awe at their incredible capabilities while being so young.
The boys wanted to go on a "mini" expedition, complete with backpacking, camping, moving camps, and a mildly technical climb to a summit. But as the trip started, I received notice that one of my climbing friends and mentors was succumbing to cancer. As My trip ended, I received notice that she was gone. It struck me as fitting that, while all of this was happening, the lessons she taught me were being passed on to my boys. I dedicate this short film to Deb as a testament to a life well lived, full of impact which will carry on.
I was there when my 8 year old nephew climbed his first 14er, and I was there again - 9 years later - when he did his first technical, class 5 climb on a classic alpine climbing route: Mount Bancroft's East Ridge. High winds and intermittent clouds made for a day demanding focus and confident movement.
My twin boys are changing. They are growing up, gaining confidence, and improving their mountaineering skills. After a spring time working on ice axe techniques, the boys wanted to take on "a real snow climb." With feet too small for front-point crampons, we did a summer time climb of a permanent snowfield: the remnant of the glaciers that used to dominate the Rocky Mountains over ten thousand years ago. Like my boys, the mountains are changing, too.
After taking the Spring and Summer to figure out the basics during the COVID-19, the family got out for four days of camping in the backcountry wilderness. We did some hiking and some climbing... and remembered that the simple things can and do bring us together.
I don't feel like my family and I should be pushing our limits with hard climbing all of the time. We had previously done a video about learning to find satisfaction with some of the less demanding forms of adventure so that our risk profiles aren't always high. Well, exposing the boys to backpacking was one of those experiences we wanted them to try and see if they enjoy. We made a short film about it.