Most modern belay devices now offer the ability to brake assist, either through camming mechanisms like a GriGri or by pinching the load strand onto the brake strand like an ATC Guide. Should we need a brake assist and do not have a suitable belay device, one option would be to make an auto locking Münter hitch. Here’s how we construct one.

Should we find ourselves belaying or lowering our climbing partner on a Münter hitch, we may also need to lock that partner off as they either come up to the new belay stance or stop their lower, below. One option is to convert our Münter to a clove hitch by following this procedure.

While there are many considerations we climbers must address when we are making a haul system, limiting the loss of mechanical advantage due to friction is often part of that list. The materials, like carabiner types and pulleys, will play a big role in that regard, but also where we position our most efficient materials can also have a big impact.

The “quad” anchor has certain characteristics that many climbers value, but traditional ways of building that anchor rely on having only a two-piece anchor. Well, we can make a quad using three pieces by following the technique in this video.

When making a friction hitch using a rope with the same diameter as the main line, we can add a fifth wrap to the bottom of a standard four-wrap Blake’s Hitch, running the finishing end through the bottom three wraps, as opposed to two. This creates more wraps bending around a two-strand section so that ropes with a wider bend radius, like most climbing ropes, can have that wider, two-strand section to grab.

Clipping the protection while climbing on lead is often when we are most vulnerable. So, we want our quickdraws to clip easily and smoothly. If you are new to climbing and researching what quickdraws to purchase, we want to consider the nose types on the carabiners and the tradeoffs that come with different designs.

When we are making a clip on lead, we are at one of our most risky points of the climb. So, we want to clip as cleanly and quickly as possible. If you are new to climbing and researching what quickdraws to purchase, one consideration that can impact that speed-to-clip are the gate styles on those carabiners. Here are some common gate types and some pros and cons of each.

Lead climbers can be pretty vulnerable when clipping into their protection, as they remove one hand from the wall and introduce slack into the rope. So, clipping efficiently is important for safety. As such, the interaction between carabiner sizes and our clipping preferences should be a consideration when making quickdraw purchases.

Lead climbers can be at their most vulnerable when making a clip into their protection. So, we want to make sure that we are using a method for clipping that makes us feel quick and confident that we can get it done right the first time. Our free hand and the gate direction will dictate available methodologies, but within those constraints there are options.

It doesn’t require any new gear, or even any new knowledge. We can mitigate against some specific risks just by getting proficient at performing the foundational climbing support roles, such as belaying and rappelling, comfortably and competently with either hand.

As we first get into climbing and start making our initial purchases of climbing gear, we may not know what we don’t know. So, when I got asked the question about choosing quickdraw lengths for a first climbing rack, I felt compelled to talk about tradeoffs rather than recommend a particular length.

The Blake’s Hitch has been used for many years by arborists, and is worth knowing as a climber because it allows one to tie a friction hitch with one end of the rope onto itself or with ropes of the same diameter. Here’s how to tie it along with some of its strengths limitations.

My inability to overcome certain lifestyle factors has led me to having tight hips, which directly impacts my climbing. Here are the five stretches I am using regularly to help gain back that necessary mobility.

It seems like a little thing, but after you've taken 40,000 steps, the energy you save (or lose) by making efficient (or inefficient) kicks into snow can mean the difference between successfully climbing and reaching the summit or not. Here's how we approach kicking steps while mountaineering.

If you are new to winter climbing, you might be wondering what type of crampon front points will work best for you. Here are the rules of thumb regarding which crampon front point types work best for which types of climbing.

The Petzl Gully Ice Axe was designed for the steep couloirs and the demands for light weight gear required by ski mountaineering. But those same characteristics make it an excellent fit for kids.

Climbing skills come gradually and with repeated experience. Taking our kids out climbing emphasizes the incremental nature of taking on more and more responsibility in a vertical environment. But mental approaches, behaviors, and some habits don't require nuanced rope skills or body movement. As our kids started with the complexities of multi-pitch climbing, we found a way they could contribute to the team's efficiency while staying within their skill set.

Tying a one-handed clove hitch is a necessary climbing skill. But like any skill, it needs to be applied at the right times and in the right way. Here's one - very common - scenario in which climbers may consider ways to avoid laying the second climber's rope over the carabiner as a first move of tying this hitch.

Different body types. Different lengths of reach. So, different sling lengths are needed to make extensions for rappelling (abseiling). Here are a few things I consider when ensuring I have the right length of sling available on my harness in case I need to rappel.

Putting different foam compounds into climbing helmets creates different pros and cons for those helmets. Here is a rundown of how two of the most common foam types, EPP and EPS, may impact your decision when selecting a climbing helmet.

There is actually more to putting on a climbing helmet than just putting it on your head. It needs to remains as stable as possible through your movement but also should you receive an impact. Here's how to ensure a proper fit.

For those of us with little crusher rock climbing kids, one of the things to think about as they challenge themselves on new routes and develop new skills is that our equipment was designed for our adult-sized bodies. But with careful consideration, we can put together the right combinations of equipment to have it work well for them. Here is an example with quickdraws.

Making upward progress when rock climbing on a hard sport route often means efficiency and conserving energy. One of the places you can lose energy needlessly is with sloppy technique as you clip your draws. Here is how to assess and apply which technique and hand positions to use for maximum efficiency.

The sticky rubber on rock climbing shoes can get polished, which reduces its grip. When you get shiny, polished sections on your climbing shoes, you can briefly scuff them with sandpaper to restore their stickiness.

Overhanging climbing routes, bad climbing holds, or underdeveloped upper body or grip strength can all cause your hands and arms to give out when rock climbing. The "drop knee" technique can shift a lot of the burden to our stronger, lower body muscles and help keep our hips close to the wall. Here's how you perform the technique.

Any time you are belaying from the ground, whether that be the first pitch of a multi-pitch climb or if you are out trying single-pitch traditional or sport climbing, you can think about using better belaying footwork, if you have the space, to make managing rope slack much easier as well as making is safer for your climber. Here's how.

For climbers just starting out, learning the foundations of solid belay technique is imperative. While different nuances and whole other techniques can be used in different situations as you gain experience, the Pull Brake Under Slide climbing belay method is the foundational method to use whenever your climber is above you.

When you are alpine climbing or mountaineering it is easy to make the mistake of being at a rest, coiling the rope to shorten it for the next section of terrain, and only after getting retied in realizing you forgot to have your pack on as you made your coils. Here's how you can get your pack on without recoiling and still managing to keep your rucksack under the rope.

When you need a secure climbing knot in the middle of a rope that is also easy to untie after weighting, an alpine butterfly knot makes a good choice. Take a look at this quick climbing tip to see under what circumstances you might use this knot as well as see one way to tie it (even in mittens).

Climbing helmets need to fit properly to keep you safe, but they also lack sun protection for your face. You can add different garments under your helmet, but you also need to avoid the pain that can come with bunched fabric pressed down on your head. So, here's what I use to add some shade to my face without creating safety or pain issues when I climb with a helmet in the hot months.

Climbing in the alpine sometimes means putting on your harness in strange or even less secure stances. So, I always look for this feature in every alpine harness I am going to use. It makes the act of putting my harness on safer despite any awkward position I might be in.

Alpine routes can be transient, changing with conditions or even breaking off features with rock fall. So, when I am out on an alpine scramble, and on terrain that I don't anticipate having full pitches of climbing, I still bring a 30 meter rope. Here's why.

We get up very early before we go hiking, backpacking, or climbing on the peaks. We call getting up and moving before the sun an "alpine start." Here's why we do it.

I once had a student sheepishly ask me about underwear management on extended trips into the mountains or the backcountry on backpacking, climbing, or camping trips. If you have resources to rotate and wash them, the number you need is simple. How often to rotate them is more complicated, dependent upon the weather and your activity levels. But here are some rules of thumb.

Finding purified water is easy on winter and alpine climbs and hikes when you are boiling snow melt, but larger particles like pine nettles can still infest your water despite boiling. Your kitchen cabinets already hold an affordable solution.

My family gets outdoors a lot for climbing, backpacking, and hiking and we use hydration pack systems when the weather is right. The convenience of having water accessible helps us drink more. But hydration packs are hard to keep from molding. That's where the Bōn Dry hydration pack dryer comes in to play. I've never had to replace any of my families' hydration systems since I started using it.

Being outdoors with my kids for climbing, backpacking, and hiking is a blast, but getting them to do some of "the small things" on a consistent basis can be a challenge. Staying hydrated is one of those things. Having water always accessible with a water bladder system can help, but I need to make sure I have the right water bladder for their little bodies and little equipment.

When we head outdoors for climbing, hiking, or backpacking, we always try to dress for conditions. But one part of our kit that maybe we haven't thought about is any rings we might usually have on. A metal ring can be a hazard when there are opportunities to either catch it on something or if the environment is cold. It's a lesson I've had to relate to many the adult climbing student.

Many climbers, mountaineers, hikers, and backpackers wear a watch. Often times, it doubles as their GPS. But once we add the necessary gloves and jackets for cold days in the alpine, that watch can be in our way. Here's how it keep my watch from getting caught in my clothing while also keeping it available as I need it.

The double fisherman's knot is the standard for joining two ends of cord, most frequently to make a cordellete or prussik loop. But beyond climbing applications, there is a whole bunch of uses for this handy knot for camping a backpacking, as well. Here's how to tie one.

On some routes, I know I am going to need to be able to access a radio or a GPS device or satellite communicator more frequently. Maybe winds or terrain will make it hard to talk with my climbing partner. Maybe it's a new area and I'm unfamiliar with the landscape. Maybe it's a big expedition, and I need to be able to stay in regular contact with a team that is spread out all over the mountain. If I need to keep the device available, I want it out of the way, high on my shoulder, when not in use; but I also need to be sure it's secure and still attached when I am using it. Here is how I rig a device to my backpack when facing these types of situations.

Avalanche accident studies have shown that the number one subjective hazard (hazards inside or our heads) that contribute to accidents is the desire to not "take a zero" on the day. Have gotten up too early, driven too far, etc. to bail on marginal conditions. Well, having a backup plan gets you out of that conundrum. You don't have to choose between all of the fun and none of the fun. Some of the fun can do in a pinch.

We are continuing Mental Health Awareness Month with videos about the mental aspects of outdoor adventuring. In this video we talk about recasting bail days as successful days when we are out climbing, mountaineering, or hiking.

We know that stretching helps with muscle restoration and that flexibility is necessary for hiking, climbing, and mountaineering performance, but did you know stretching also releases hormones that are fundamental to maintaining good mental health?

In gravity fighting sports, there can be a tendency to want to reduce one's weight in order to improve strength-to-weight ratio. While that might work in the short run, it isn't sustainable. You need both calories and proper nutrition to perform when in the outdoors. As we begin Mental Health Awareness Month, let’s remember that the consequences of obsessive weight cutting aren't worth the benefits.

When we travel for hiking, climbing, and mountaineering, we have a little less than a 1% chance that a checked bag will get lost, damaged, or delayed. Compounded across multiple bags for multiple people, and you can quickly end up with a much higher likelihood of a baggage handling error. So, here is one tip to help you avoid having partial systems and incomplete gear should you run into one of those baggage problems.

When we travel for hiking, climbing, and mountaineering, some of what we need to take with us are longer items that don't fit well in most luggage. Here are the typical airline dimensions you need to know and a recommendation on having at least one of these types of duffel bags.

When we travel for hiking, climbing, and mountaineering, we often need to take sharp objects with us. The baggage handling process can make it easy for those sharp gear to puncture our bags. Here's the admittedly simple solution to the problem.

It's a simple thing, but a) we don't always follow it, and b) people just starting out need to know it. Your plan shouldn't stay with you. We should all be telling a trusted person our itinerary and route before every trip into the backcountry. It will dramatically improve the odds of you receiving help should you need it.

Staying hydrated is important when you are on the move in the backcountry, whether hiking, backpacking, or mountaineering; it impacts your ability to exercise for the duration and also affects your acclimatization to higher altitudes. But your body can't absorb the water you drink if you drink too much to fast. So, how often and how much should you be drinking water in the ideal?

Being at altitude suppresses your appetite. But your body needs more calories when you are up high. So, adding a caloric mix to your water is a good way to over come calorie depravation when you find it is difficult to eat enough.

The water you need to bring on an outdoors adventure is a product of the activity - like a backpacking trip, a hike, or a mountain climb - how hard you are working, and the climate. But climate is also determined by altitude and higher altitudes demand more water. Find out how much more in this video.

There is a lot that goes into your consumption rate of fuel for your camping stove: altitude, air temperature, temperature of your water, moisture content of the surrounding snow, the stove efficiency, itself, burner size, wind speed, the list goes on and on. So, here is a rule of thumb for taking the right amount of fuel with you when you will be melting snow for water on your expedition.

The consequences of a lead climber fall when ice climbing are simply too high to let ego get in the way of safety. When you need to take a rest, and you can find good ice, go ahead and take that rest. Here's how.

If you have big, double boots for cold mountaineering as well as shoulder-season alpine climbing boots that are considerably smaller, you will have extra strap material from your crampon attachments whenever you put those crampons on your smaller boots. Here's what I do with that extra tail to keep it securely out of my way.

The biomechanics of winter climbing are different and strain different muscles due to the equipment we have to wear. If you are into ice climbing, alpinism, or mountaineering, don't let your calves be the muscle endurance shortcoming that keeps you from the top.

When I'm done with a winter trip, maybe a little wet and a little cold, I want to get out of the wet gear and into some dry things. That's where this very cheap piece of equipment comes in, making it easy to store my wet things. It's big enough and tough enough to handle climbing equipment, axes and crampons, snowshoes, and boots for the whole family.

Cold weather brings condensation inside your tent, and condensation brings frozen water to your sleeping bag. The more days you are out, the more of a problem this becomes. Airing your bag out in the sun can evaporate the moisture and keep your bag lofted and insulating well.

Having done a full video on attempting to avoid getting cold hands in the first place, what can you do if you end up with cold hands, regardless? Here are four ways to get your hands warm, and you can actually do all four together, if need be. My family and I use these techniques regularly on our hikes, climbs, and backpacking trips in the wilderness.

Too much snow can damage a tent be overweighting the tent poles. But getting snow off your tent can damage it, too, if you aren't careful. See why I put duct tape on my snow shovel so that I can better clear snow off my tent when winter camping.

As I teach my kids how to enjoy winter in the backcountry, I have to remind them that stepping out into the cold is supposed to feel cold. And it is a good tip for anyone new to winter adventures: When you are pursuing activities like summit hikes, long backpacking trips, and mountaineering routes, you are going to generate some heat. Your layers need to make sense for what you will feel when working hard, not when standing at the trailhead.

There are legitimate reasons to prefer not bringing a GPS device with you in the backcountry. Costs may be prohibitive. You may prefer map and compass. You may only take short trips out. But if you do anything that is multi-day, GPS devices make the most weight-efficient electronic option. It's more than just gross weight that should be considered, but weight per hour of use. Once you start getting other devices up to the same battery life by bringing battery banks with you, that supposed weight disadvantage starts to disappear.

Often times rock climbers wrap their runners and cords very tightly to keep them out of their way when racking them on their harness. But if you get into alpine climbing or mountaineering in the cold environments, that kind of thing can be difficult to tie and untie with gloves. Here's how I find the balance between racking in a glove friendly way but which could be too loose and a trip hazard versus racking very tightly but in a way that is difficult to manage while gloves are on.

Sleeping bags can be expensive, and we should take care of that investment. The simplest thing you can do to help keep your sleeping bag lofting and in excellent shape is to not store it in a compression sack when you aren't using it out in the field. Hanging in it our using its non-compression storage bag are better options, if you have the space.

If you are hiking, backpacking, or climbing in winter, those ultralight storm pants that weigh a few grams are missing one key feature: a full side zip up the outside of the legs. If you have big boots and sharp traction devices on those boots, a full zip becomes indispensable. That way you can avoid shredding those pants or else having to remove your spikes every time the storm shell comes on.

The cold makes it harder to bring in oxygen and have that oxygen circulate around your body. Whether you hike, climb, backpack, exercise, or just camp, this can put unnecessary strain on your heart and lungs. Scientists have found that a heat exchange mask can help avoid these issues. I've been using one on my mountaineering and climbing expeditions for years. It's helped me keep cold-induced asthma under control as well as helped my non-asthmatic friends perform at their best when we are in extreme conditions.

You are hiking, backpacking, or climbing in the cold and your multiday trip would be easier with the convenience of a canister stove - if only they didn't fail in cold weather! Well, they don't have to fail. Mountaineers have been using canister stoves in high, extremely cold places for years. And this simple, no-cost solution can be applied to anyone who wants to camp cook with canister fuel.

The key to keeping the snow out of your boots is already on your pants. You can use the grommets on the hem to cinch your pants down when facing deep powder or post-holing when out on a climb or hike in the winter. Here's how.

When the temperatures drop, losing an outer glove or mitt could lead to serious damage to your fingers and hand. Yet, sometimes you need to be able to take off that outer glove for improved dexterity or to better feel the terrain. If you gloves don't come with a factory installed leash, you can create a do-it-yourself option.