Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
Dropped Your Belay Device? The Auto-Locking Münter Hitch May Save Your Climb!
Most modern belay devices now offer the ability to brake assist, either through camming mechanisms like a GriGri or by pinching the load strand onto the brake strand like an ATC Guide. Should we need a brake assist and do not have a suitable belay device, one option would be to make an auto locking Münter hitch. Here’s how we construct one.
Converting a Climber's Münter Hitch to a Clove Hitch
Should we find ourselves belaying or lowering our climbing partner on a Münter hitch, we may also need to lock that partner off as they either come up to the new belay stance or stop their lower, below. One option is to convert our Münter to a clove hitch by following this procedure.
Should We Place Our Pulley Near the Load or Near the Haul of our Climbing Haul System?
While there are many considerations we climbers must address when we are making a haul system, limiting the loss of mechanical advantage due to friction is often part of that list. The materials, like carabiner types and pulleys, will play a big role in that regard, but also where we position our most efficient materials can also have a big impact.
How to Make a "Quad" Climbing Anchor on Three Pieces of Climbing Protection
The “quad” anchor has certain characteristics that many climbers value, but traditional ways of building that anchor rely on having only a two-piece anchor. Well, we can make a quad using three pieces by following the technique in this video.
Preview to: Skinny, Light Tag Line on Your Rappel from a Climb? Consider These Risks, First
The proliferation of new light-but-strong materials has led to some questions about just how skinny and light a tag line (a static rope used just to retrieve your main rope) can be when used for a rappel (abseil). Well, there are some considerations that we need to keep in mind if we decide to save weight by going super light with a tag line. The full video goes into the risks we add as well as how to mitigate them.
The Five-Three Blake's Hitch for Ropes with a Wider Bend Radius
When making a friction hitch using a rope with the same diameter as the main line, we can add a fifth wrap to the bottom of a standard four-wrap Blake’s Hitch, running the finishing end through the bottom three wraps, as opposed to two. This creates more wraps bending around a two-strand section so that ropes with a wider bend radius, like most climbing ropes, can have that wider, two-strand section to grab.
Preview to: the "Double Fix" Knot Pass Technique on Rappel (Abseil)
If we have a single point of damage on our climbing rope and need to rappel (abseil), two climbers can work as a team and use two different instances of fixing the rope to perform two different single-strand rappels. We then avoid having to use time-consuming knot passing techniques by avoiding, rather than passing, that knot. The full video goes deeper into how we do this and shares some risks to watch out for.
Preview to: It's More Than You Think! Why Modern Tools Help Ascending the Climbing Rope
It used to be the case that ascending the climbing rope was done using two soft goods wrapped around the rope with two friction hitches. That method requires that we put the waist prusik further up the rope than the leg loop. But modern tools have inverted that configuration. The major benefit of that setup is more than efficiency of ascent; it's much simpler to overcome a lip of rock or ice, now, and the full video more deeply explores why.
Preview to: Six Climbing Friction Hitches and Their Pros and Cons
We use friction hitches in many different circumstances in climbing. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of different hitches can help us select the right hitch for the right situation. The full video goes into the six hitches that I turn to most frequently along with a discussion of their pros and cons so that we can better match a hitch to a need.
Preview to: What is End Roping in Climbing? When Can We Use It and How Do We Do It Safely?
End Roping is a technique that allows us to move a climbing party of three quickly through moderate terrain without the fuss of more complicated rope systems. But there are risk mitigations we should implement to set the system up and there are circumstances when it would not make a safe option. The full video gets into when and how to employ an end roping system.
Preview to: Improve Climber Communication with Extended Master Points On Moderate Terrain
The kind of blocky, ledgy terrain that we often see on moderate climbs presents both ample natural protection points as well as communication and rope abrasion challenges. Well, we can use the former to help mitigate against the later. The full video provides a few different methods for extending a belay stance and master point out when faced with a comparatively safe, but large and communication hindering, ledge.
Preview to: Slings, Prusiks, and Cord I Have Added to My Climbing Rack
As new materials are developed into climbing tools, and as my needs on my climbs have evolved, I've changed up some elements of my standard climbing rack. The full video goes deeper into some soft goods (slings, prusiks, and cords) that I have begun carrying on all my climbs including some pros and cons.
Blake's Hitch for Rock Climbers: Pros and Cons and How to Tie This Friction Hitch
The Blake’s Hitch has been used for many years by arborists, and is worth knowing as a climber because it allows one to tie a friction hitch with one end of the rope onto itself or with ropes of the same diameter. Here’s how to tie it along with some of its strengths limitations.
Preview to: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review After 4 Years of Use
For nearly four years, I have been taking the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism pack for most of my alpine climbs, whether that be on rock, snow, or ice. After that long of throwing the pack on my back, the full video provides some of the pros and cons that I've experienced while using it.
Preview to: Enjoy Scrambling (Easy Rock Climbing) with These Types of Shoes
Ever hear climbers talk about “insecure climbing” and the fear that brings to them? Well imagine feeling insecure at every step up a rock face. This is what a scramble, which should be a fun romp, can feel like in the wrong footwear. Scrambles are examples of where approach shoes can really make a difference in our enjoyment of the outdoors. The full video gets into how their specific features combine to make such a big difference.
N95 Masks for Backcountry Smoke on Your Camp, Hike, or Climb
In certain parts of the world, wildfires are becoming a worsening problem, and the likelihood of being impacted by smoke on our camp, hike, or climb is increasing. Smoke damage to our lungs can be a serious health issue, so we've taken steps to help mitigate that by leveraging a tool that we never used to have a few years ago but which is nearly ubiquitous now.
We Trade Off Risks: The Myth of Solutions in Climbing
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. I certainly have my preferred gear and techniques, but I find it is important to check my own biases and complacency by remembering that there are no pieces of gear or system techniques that remove all risks.
Celebrating Our Small Climbing Successes When Projects Get Hard
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. When we are climbing near our limit, we are likely to experience quite a bit of frustration and failure. Keeping in mind the incremental progress we make on our way to being a better climber and help remind us that we actually do experience many successes.
Curiosity is a Superpower in Climbing and in Life
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. I am constantly reminded by my young kids that being curious about the world and less dogmatic about our own "knowledge" can be a gift in many aspects of climbing and life.
Our Need for Continuous Learning in Climbing
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. One of the habits that is key to staying and enjoying climbing is continuous learning. Because the tools and techniques we use are constantly evolving, we need to make sure that we evolve with them or we risk using old techniques with new tools in a way that could limit our growth or prove unsafe.