Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
Tether or Rope? SECURING Ourselves to the Climbing Anchor
Climbers will sometimes use a tether, or a Personal Anchor System (PAS), to clip into an anchor and will sometimes use the rope. Let's briefly go through some pros and cons.
Preview to: Have We Been Rappelling WRONG!? A No Tether Multi-Pitch Rappel
While the "backside clove hitch" method of connecting to the anchor is getting more and more popular for ascending routes, we can extend that same thinking to a multi-pitch rappel. The method was developed to address the problem with managing knots in the ends of our rope, as we need to remove them to pull the rope but need to add back for the next rappel, which creates opportunities for mistakes. The full video goes step-by-step and gets into pros and cons.
Racking My Climbing Lanyard
While a climbing lanyard is not my first choice for connecting to an anchor, there are times I use one. How I choose to rack the lanyard on my harness depends upon the type of lanyard I am using.
Preview to: Contrasting Two Transitions from Climbing to Rappelling to Study Tradeoffs
Like the old "choose your own adventure" books, each climb we make presents many choices, big and small. The full video looks at two different transitions, moving from climbing to rappelling in a team of two, to see how our choices impact the various risks we can both avoid and bring into play by those choices.
Anchor Knots Weaken Climbing Slings but We Can Mitigate That
@HowNOT2 makes outstanding gear testing videos and have opened a highly responsive and well stocked gear shop. You should check it out. One of their major video themes is testing soft goods when configured in anchor configurations. While knowing how a specific configuration will rate in strength is important, understanding why can help you make dynamic choices in the field.
Preview to Why Our Climbing Family Doesn't Typically Simul-Rappel (Abseil)
Counterbalanced simul-rappelling is something expert climbers will do in unusual circumstances, and this gives the impression of relative safety. But in nominal climbing circumstances, what benefit are we really gaining? The full video breaks down the time-savings benefits so that we can weigh the costs.
The Banshee Belay Anchor for Vertically Staggered Hardware or Ice Screws
When we can anticipate the fixed hardware at the anchor stations of a climb, or if we have flexibility in placing good ice screws as we see fit, it is possible to pre-rig our anchor material and use it at the anchors as we move up the route. For vertically staggered anchors, the banshee belay is a good option. Here is how we can make and employ one.
Preview to Climbing is Adapting: Case Study of a Recent Climb When Things Did Not Go Perfectly
On a recent climbing trip, I forgot my harness, used up gear making an improvised harness, and was confronted with a cascading series of risk assessments and mitigations as a result. The full video is a case study of a climbing day when things went fine but imperfectly, as many days climbing end up being.
Make Sure We Climbers Clip the Master Point When Using the Anchor Shelf
Using the shelf, that area of anchor leg strands above a master point knot, has benefits and tradeoffs. One of the risks we need to be aware of is that an unclipped master point can pull back through the knot if we do not clip something into that master point.
Preview to Taking an Improvised Climbing Harness Up and Down Multiple Pitches: What I Made and Why
Every piece of climbing equipment has its strengths and weaknesses. The tube-style plaquette devices I use a lot, because I am often climbing with both of my boys, are no exception. The full video goes into three ways these devices can fail to break assist when in the wrong circumstances along with what we can do to mitigate those risks.
Clipping the Top Shelf of a Climbing Anchor is Done Differently for Different Anchor Types
Using the shelf, that area of anchor leg strands above a master point knot, has benefits and tradeoffs. But if we are going to use it, we want to make sure we are clipping it in the right way for the type of anchor we’ve made, or we could end up adding in risks that we could easily avoid.
Preview to: Our Brake-Assisting Belay Device Can Fail! Three Plaquette Risks and Mitigations
Every piece of climbing equipment has its strengths and weaknesses. The tube-style plaquette devices I use a lot, because I am often climbing with both of my boys, are no exception. The full video goes into three ways these devices can fail to break assist when in the wrong circumstances along with what we can do to mitigate those risks.
These Rules of Thumb for Climbing Knot Tails Could Save Your Life!
More isn’t always better. When it comes to tail lengths for certain kinds of climbing knots, we know that too short of a tail can allow the knots to unravel. But too long of a tail can lead to problems, too. Here’s a brief overview.
Preview to: Beyond Visual Checks: How Climbers Can Use Weight Transfers to Check Safety Systems
We make sure our new climbing system (belay, rappel, anchor, etc.) can take your weight before we start taking apart your previous system as we move through a climbing transition. Kind of common sense, huh? Not very enlightening. But what if we take that same concept and apply it in less obvious ways. Can keeping a mental model of "weight the new system, first" keep us safer more generally? The full video gets into more details.
Choose the Right Carabiner to Safely Belay with Your Petzl GriGri
The Petzl GriGri belay device is now seen almost everywhere climbing happens. But, like any piece of equipment, it has ways that it can be used more or less safely. One key to using the GriGri as safely as possible is to make sure we choose the right carabiner to use with it, as certain carabiners can create risks that can be easily avoided.
How and Why We Mark Our Climbing Gear
Over a climbing career, we will climb with multiple partners, and every time we go up, we are likely sharing gear and frequently changing hands with that gear. This is why we climbers mark our gears with a color combination of either tape or nail polish. Each method has its pros and cons.
Taking Care of Our Feet During a Winter Climb, Hike, or Camp
The idea of taking off our boots and dipping our feet in water during a winter climb, hike, or camp may feel unpleasant, but it might actually be more important that we take care of our feet in winter than any other time of year.
Why I Carry 3M Nexcare Skin Crack Care Glue in My Winter Climbing First Aid Kit
As a reminder, I do not have any product sponsors. If I talk about a product, it’s because I have spent my own money on it. Here’s a little item I now keep in my winter first aid kit because super glue in an open wound stings and this does not.
Protect Your Gear! Bundling Your Crampons for the Climbing Approach
Some of our winter climbs will have an approach hike in before we ever want to have our crampons on our feet. Here is a way to bundle our crampons together so that the spikes are less exposed and therefore less likely to damage our other gear.
Is the Water Bottle You Take Hiking, Backpacking, or Climbing Harming Your Health?
We are learning more about the potential health downsides stemming from the ubiquitous plastic water bottles that so many hikers, backpackers, and climbers use. New technology is allowing new, and more complete, measurements of how much plastic is degrading into the water we drink from them. The science is evolving and scientific studies are starting to triangulate around the potential health impacts. So, I’m watching this evolve and reconsidering my use of these normally standard pieces of adventure equipment.