Short clips

Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds

Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski

Preview to: Have We Been Rappelling WRONG!? A No Tether Multi-Pitch Rappel

While the "backside clove hitch" method of connecting to the anchor is getting more and more popular for ascending routes, we can extend that same thinking to a multi-pitch rappel. The method was developed to address the problem with managing knots in the ends of our rope, as we need to remove them to pull the rope but need to add back for the next rappel, which creates opportunities for mistakes. The full video goes step-by-step and gets into pros and cons.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski

Anchor Knots Weaken Climbing Slings but We Can Mitigate That

@HowNOT2 makes outstanding gear testing videos and have opened a highly responsive and well stocked gear shop. You should check it out. One of their major video themes is testing soft goods when configured in anchor configurations. While knowing how a specific configuration will rate in strength is important, understanding why can help you make dynamic choices in the field.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski

The Banshee Belay Anchor for Vertically Staggered Hardware or Ice Screws

When we can anticipate the fixed hardware at the anchor stations of a climb, or if we have flexibility in placing good ice screws as we see fit, it is possible to pre-rig our anchor material and use it at the anchors as we move up the route. For vertically staggered anchors, the banshee belay is a good option. Here is how we can make and employ one.

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Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski

Preview to Taking an Improvised Climbing Harness Up and Down Multiple Pitches: What I Made and Why

Every piece of climbing equipment has its strengths and weaknesses. The tube-style plaquette devices I use a lot, because I am often climbing with both of my boys, are no exception. The full video goes into three ways these devices can fail to break assist when in the wrong circumstances along with what we can do to mitigate those risks.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski

Clipping the Top Shelf of a Climbing Anchor is Done Differently for Different Anchor Types

Using the shelf, that area of anchor leg strands above a master point knot, has benefits and tradeoffs. But if we are going to use it, we want to make sure we are clipping it in the right way for the type of anchor we’ve made, or we could end up adding in risks that we could easily avoid.

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Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski

Preview to: Our Brake-Assisting Belay Device Can Fail! Three Plaquette Risks and Mitigations

Every piece of climbing equipment has its strengths and weaknesses. The tube-style plaquette devices I use a lot, because I am often climbing with both of my boys, are no exception. The full video goes into three ways these devices can fail to break assist when in the wrong circumstances along with what we can do to mitigate those risks.

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Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips Jason Kolaczkowski

Preview to: Beyond Visual Checks: How Climbers Can Use Weight Transfers to Check Safety Systems

We make sure our new climbing system (belay, rappel, anchor, etc.) can take your weight before we start taking apart your previous system as we move through a climbing transition. Kind of common sense, huh? Not very enlightening. But what if we take that same concept and apply it in less obvious ways. Can keeping a mental model of "weight the new system, first" keep us safer more generally? The full video gets into more details.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski

Choose the Right Carabiner to Safely Belay with Your Petzl GriGri

The Petzl GriGri belay device is now seen almost everywhere climbing happens. But, like any piece of equipment, it has ways that it can be used more or less safely. One key to using the GriGri as safely as possible is to make sure we choose the right carabiner to use with it, as certain carabiners can create risks that can be easily avoided.

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Why I Carry 3M Nexcare Skin Crack Care Glue in My Winter Climbing First Aid Kit

As a reminder, I do not have any product sponsors. If I talk about a product, it’s because I have spent my own money on it. Here’s a little item I now keep in my winter first aid kit because super glue in an open wound stings and this does not.

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Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski Short Clips, Quick Tips (07) Jason Kolaczkowski

Is the Water Bottle You Take Hiking, Backpacking, or Climbing Harming Your Health?

We are learning more about the potential health downsides stemming from the ubiquitous plastic water bottles that so many hikers, backpackers, and climbers use. New technology is allowing new, and more complete, measurements of how much plastic is degrading into the water we drink from them. The science is evolving and scientific studies are starting to triangulate around the potential health impacts. So, I’m watching this evolve and reconsidering my use of these normally standard pieces of adventure equipment.

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