Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
Preview to: Our Climbing, Backpacking, or Trekking Expedition Retrospective
No climbing, backpacking, or trekking expedition goes perfectly. We get some things in planning and executing the expedition just right, but we also don’t do enough of some things (like, maybe, communication) or too much of others (like, maybe, overtraining). So, this previews a facilitated retrospective on a completed expedition. What we learn from everyone's unique perspectives helps leverage strengths and avoid pitfalls when we head out on the next big trip.
Preview to Climbing, Backpacking, or Trekking Expedition Team Dynamics Starts with Prep
Trust is key to any team endeavor, and belief in our teammates is just as key to an expedition's success. It doesn't matter if we are climbing, backpacking, or trekking. Multi-day adventures in the outdoors can hinge on our ability to lean on one another. Our family's trek of the Tour de Mont Blanc proved to be one example. The full video describes how the training we put into fitness and shared systems, which we have to do anyway, can be multiplied in the value they bring to expedition teams.
Preview to: Getting Your Gear Where It Needs to Go! Logistics Planning for Expeditions
For any expedition, whether to climb, trek, or do anything else, we’ve got to get ourselves and our gear to the right places at the right time. What we need for the travel segments will be different than what we need during the adventure portions of the trip, and we need to make sure that - as silly as it sounds - the people and the gear meet up when needed. That’s logistics. And there is a lot that goes into logistics planning for an expedition. The full video offers a mental model to help get us started.
Preview to: Extending a Belay Away from the Anchor in an Exposed Position
In Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo’s book “The Mountain Guide Manual,” they discuss various systems designed to speed parties along technical terrain, including options for improving communication. When in blocky terrain, where a lead climber at a belay stance may not normally be able to see or clearly communicate with a following climber, they provide an option the full video goes through step-by-step for safely moving the belay back from the anchor when in an exposed position, keeping both the leader and the follower secure and with better line of sight and communication.
Preview to: Turn Your Climbing Rope into a Rescue Stretcher in Minutes
In Ian Nicholson’s excellent book “Climbing Self-Rescue,” he provides a description of this stretcher you can make even if you have no additional materials other than the climbing rope that you already have with you. When we are climbing fast and light and aren’t taking trekking poles, skis, or other solid objects with us, this is a handy technique to have available should an accident occur.
Preview to: Ascending a Vertical Fixed Line Using Nothing But that Climbing Rope
I was asked if I could think of a way to ascend a single-strand, fixed climbing rope, using nothing but that rope. Well, I thought of one. The full video goes into the mental approach I took to solving the problem, along with a step-by-step guide. It serves no practical purpose, but it might be an interesting look at how we can take knowledge of system components and build a whole new system.
Preview to: Skinny, Light Tag Line on Your Rappel from a Climb? Consider These Risks, First
The proliferation of new light-but-strong materials has led to some questions about just how skinny and light a tag line (a static rope used just to retrieve your main rope) can be when used for a rappel (abseil). Well, there are some considerations that we need to keep in mind if we decide to save weight by going super light with a tag line. The full video goes into the risks we add as well as how to mitigate them.
Preview to: the "Double Fix" Knot Pass Technique on Rappel (Abseil)
If we have a single point of damage on our climbing rope and need to rappel (abseil), two climbers can work as a team and use two different instances of fixing the rope to perform two different single-strand rappels. We then avoid having to use time-consuming knot passing techniques by avoiding, rather than passing, that knot. The full video goes deeper into how we do this and shares some risks to watch out for.
Preview to: It's More Than You Think! Why Modern Tools Help Ascending the Climbing Rope
It used to be the case that ascending the climbing rope was done using two soft goods wrapped around the rope with two friction hitches. That method requires that we put the waist prusik further up the rope than the leg loop. But modern tools have inverted that configuration. The major benefit of that setup is more than efficiency of ascent; it's much simpler to overcome a lip of rock or ice, now, and the full video more deeply explores why.
Preview to: Six Climbing Friction Hitches and Their Pros and Cons
We use friction hitches in many different circumstances in climbing. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of different hitches can help us select the right hitch for the right situation. The full video goes into the six hitches that I turn to most frequently along with a discussion of their pros and cons so that we can better match a hitch to a need.
Preview to: What is End Roping in Climbing? When Can We Use It and How Do We Do It Safely?
End Roping is a technique that allows us to move a climbing party of three quickly through moderate terrain without the fuss of more complicated rope systems. But there are risk mitigations we should implement to set the system up and there are circumstances when it would not make a safe option. The full video gets into when and how to employ an end roping system.
Preview to: Improve Climber Communication with Extended Master Points On Moderate Terrain
The kind of blocky, ledgy terrain that we often see on moderate climbs presents both ample natural protection points as well as communication and rope abrasion challenges. Well, we can use the former to help mitigate against the later. The full video provides a few different methods for extending a belay stance and master point out when faced with a comparatively safe, but large and communication hindering, ledge.
Preview to: Slings, Prusiks, and Cord I Have Added to My Climbing Rack
As new materials are developed into climbing tools, and as my needs on my climbs have evolved, I've changed up some elements of my standard climbing rack. The full video goes deeper into some soft goods (slings, prusiks, and cords) that I have begun carrying on all my climbs including some pros and cons.
Preview to: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review After 4 Years of Use
For nearly four years, I have been taking the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism pack for most of my alpine climbs, whether that be on rock, snow, or ice. After that long of throwing the pack on my back, the full video provides some of the pros and cons that I've experienced while using it.
Preview to: Enjoy Scrambling (Easy Rock Climbing) with These Types of Shoes
Ever hear climbers talk about “insecure climbing” and the fear that brings to them? Well imagine feeling insecure at every step up a rock face. This is what a scramble, which should be a fun romp, can feel like in the wrong footwear. Scrambles are examples of where approach shoes can really make a difference in our enjoyment of the outdoors. The full video gets into how their specific features combine to make such a big difference.
Preview to: Why and How We Add Wildfire Smoke Conditions to Our Hiking and Climbing Trips
Over the years, and even decades, of my climbing career, I’ve noticed an increase in the frequency of smoke from wildfires impacting my - and my family’s - outdoor activities. We now factor in smoke and wildfires into our climbing, hiking, and climbing planning process just like we would with weather. The full video goes deeper into some resources we use for that planning.
Preview to: Six Tips for a Safer Counterbalance Rappel
If we feel the need to get down from a climb quickly, we may be tempted to employ a counterbalance rappel. That rappel technique does allow two rappels, simultaneously, so it is faster, but it adds risks that we need to mitigate. The full video offers six tips that will mitigate those risks.
Preview to: Having Too Short of Climbing Rope for a Rappel (Abseil) to the Next Anchor
While on rappel (or abseil), for several reasons we could end up with a rope that is too short to make it to our next safe rappel anchor using a standard two-strand rappel on a doubled-over rope. If we end up in that situation, we need a procedure to deal with things in a safe way. The full video offers such a procedure.
Preview to: Pass a Knot Lowering System When Lowing a Climber More than a Rope Length
In some circumstances, attaching two ropes together and lowering a first climber down on a single strand may be the safest way to descend a climbing route. If we do so, we need to be able to pass the rope-joining knot through the lowering system safely and efficiently. The full video provides two methods for doing so.
Preview to: How to Make Four Different Climbing Rope Coils for Different Circumstances
There are many ways to coil our climbing ropes. Just like climbing knots, though, each coil method has its own benefits and drawbacks. The full video shares four different ways to coil a climbing rope along with a description of some circumstances when one coil method might prove a better option.