Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
Mastering This ONE Climbing Knot Trick to Keep Your Partner SAFE!
When we are belaying from a Münter, we may have to turn that hitch into a clove once our partner is up and at the anchor. We can do so cleverly with two clips or with one. It is safer to only open the gate once, but that is only if this maybe more complicated method of tying the hitch is done swiftly and correctly each time. Tradeoffs.
Can You Climb Without a Belay Device? 3 Game-Changing Techniques
Should we happen to have lost our belay device while still needing to climb, we may want to employ an auto-locking hitch to help with belays from the top or pack hauls or the like. The Garda, Lorenzi, and Auto-Locking Münter hitches are all options. The full video goes deep on how to create them, how we might use them, and some pros and cons that come with each.
Would You Climb This Crumbling Cliff?
If you go climbing in the alpine, and particularly in fully wild and maybe even unexplored areas, you are likely to be subjected to rockfall, and that rockfall can become fairly likely. The full video goes deeper into how we assess our terrain for rockfall risk and goes into a number of ways to mitigate that risk and keep our likelihood of getting hit by a rock low enough to feel acceptable.
Preview to: Edelrid Pinch Versus Petzl Grigri
I have been using the Edelrid Pinch break assisting belay device long enough now to have some perspective on the specifications and features that truly distinguish it from the Petzl Grigri. The full video goes more deeply into a comparison. I have come to reach for the Pinch, first, in certain applications, but not for all of my climbing. Here's why.
Is Your Climbing Harness SAFE ENOUGH for Mountain Climbs?
We all look for many different features when we are looking for a climbing harness, and I am no exception. But there is one feature that I find to be a must have on my alpine harnesses that maybe isn't always available when looking for the lightest model or a model for different styles of climbing. I want to make sure I can easily and fully open up the leg loops.
Preview to: Blue Ice Choucas Pro vs Older Model, Which is Better for Climbers?
Blue Ice took a really good harness and redesigned and rebuilt it, anyways. The video goes deep into a feature-by-feature analysis to inform if the new version of the Choucas Pro harness is enough of an improvement over the older version to earn a place in your gear closet.
Preview to: I Tested 3M Gripping Material For 2 Years And Here’s What I Found!
Two years ago, I did a video about the potential I saw in 3M Gripping Material as a wrap for ice tools. Two years later, now, I have found one version of the material to be not good enough and another version to be pretty good, but at a cost. The full video gets into all the details.
Preview to: Can Your Climbing Trip Plan Save Your Life?
A trip plan can keep you and your climbing partners on the same page but also can help your loved ones deal with any emergencies that might arise. So, what can we put in our trip plans to ensure we meet these needs? The full video goes into more detail.
Pay Attention to This DETAIL to Keep Your Lead Climber Safe!
Lead belaying is more than holding the rope during a fall. It's more than keeping a middling amount of slack (too much means big falls, too little means it's hard for the leader to clip). If we are really paying attention to our climber, who should be anticipating their "slack" and "take" needs.
Preview to: Should You Link Climbing Pitches Together?
I've linked many a short set of climbing pitches into a longer pitch. But I don't always do it. The idea that having to only set up one belay and therefore one belay transition will speed up our climbing doesn't account for a host or reasons why speed might not be the ultimate consideration. The full video goes into a number of things I consider before I decide to link two pitches together.
How I Pack Food for Big Adventures!
When we need to pack 10, 20, 30 days of food for a big expedition, there are lots of ways to do it. What I like to do is create a Ziploc bag of food for each day of the trip. Here's why.
Preview to: Getting Ready for a Big Climbing Adventure? Don't Skip This Training!
When getting ready for a big climb, we work on cardio fitness, we work on strength, we work on technique. But, if the climbing is really pushing our comfort zone, are we going to be able to get into and out of our systems when we are exhausted and stressed? Does practicing systems play a role in training? The full video gets into new climbers and those going on expedition often doing this along with the day-to-day upkeep needed for the rest of us..
Would You Use Your Belay Device Carabiner This Way?
Climbing is full of tradeoffs. It’s hard to have a simpler anchor for a rappel than a rope around a tree or rock, but that same system can be environmentally damaging (especially to trees) or can have too much friction to easily pull the rope (often when around rocks). So, here is an option that potentially addresses these issues, but it does mean more material is used, which increases the likelihood of the rope getting stuck, say, in a crack, when pulled.
Preview to: Don't Risk Your Life Using BAD Tree Anchors or Poorly Slung Rocks!
Monolithic climbing anchors - anchors built from a single, unquestionably strong tree or rock - can be simple and timely while also being incredibly safe. But making them safe means we need to evaluate our chosen terrain feature well and understand a few nuances that can come with our rope, sling, or cordelette configurations, which the full video goes into in detail.
Preview to: 3 Ways to Escape a Climbing Belay on Moderate Terrain
When moving quickly through moderate terrain, we might be using the rope but not be using standard climbing anchors. When we aren't pitching it out, we can still have a climbing fall that might require us to escape the belay in order to hold our partner in place while we render aid. The full video gives three examples of how we can do that when we are using terrain or body belays by anchoring to the principles of any belay escape.
Adjust Your Boot Fit from Uphill to Downhill with the Turn of a Dial
Some climbers love BOA lacing systems - using a cord and a dial (or two) to tighten the boot as opposed to regular laces. Some climbers don't trust the durability of the system. But if you are one of those climbers that use BOA systems, that ease of adjustment can make protecting our feet when moving downhill as easy as a few cranks of the wheel.
Preview to: Eight Lessons to Help New Climbers Climb a Snow Couloir Safely
This last spring and summer, my kids finally had the experience, technique, and the physical size to utilize appropriate equipment that allowed them to climb steeper couloirs - snow gullies - safely. But those things are only part of the equation. Being aware of different risks and mitigation tactics are necessary, as well. The full video provides eight tips that helped us, and may help any other new climbers, approach snow climbing season with care.
Don't Make THIS Mistake with Your Lead Belay Position
Last week we provided a short about managing slack when providing a lead belay (https://youtube.com/shorts/NO2jBlNbJNo). Well another part of that equation is not wanting to step too far away from the wall, or we may create other problems!
Preview to: Can You Block Lead from a Climbing Rope Anchor?
There are occasions when we may want to use the climbing rope as the soft good in our climbing anchor. And there are occasions when we might want the same lead climber to climb multiple pitches in a row (block leading). What happens when we want to do both? The full video walks through that transition when having the rope we need to take up with us being used in the anchor.
How Much Slack Is Actually Safe for Climbing?
While it is helpful to have rules-of-thumb about many things in climbing, like slack management when belaying, the realities are usually more complex. From moment to moment on a climb, the risk that is most significant can change. Constantly asking ourselves what is the most significant risk is a key for not only belaying, but climbing safely, overall.