Winter and spring climbing often takes us to ridges where we can mitigate against avalanche danger by walking above the terrain hazard. But while on that ridge, we may be facing another danger: cornice falls. Here's some of the things to consider as we navigate loaded snow sitting on top of the ridge instead of below it.

Self arrest is a very necessary climbing skill if we are on moderate angled snow slopes like snow-filled gullies, or couloirs, or ridge walks above sloping mountain faces. That technique, at its best, demands proper use of an ice axe, but if we don't have or have dropped our axe, we shouldn't just give up. As a last-ditch effort to avoid having a slip become a fall, the full video gets into details on how and when to apply three techniques that don't require an ice axe.

Ice Axes, when made of metal, will conduct the cold from the snow and environment around us. There are options that are less conductive, like carbon fiber, but we may want to keep using a robust metal axe for use with certain techniques. So, what can we do to reduce the cold from that axe that is freezing our hands?

If we decide that end roping may be the right method for taking on moderately technical snow terrain on a climb, we may want to pack one axe more than we have climbers. It offers up some flexibility in deploying our end roping system. The full length video goes deeper into why and how.

If you are new to winter climbing, you might be thinking about what type of ice axe you will need. Well, one major component of axe design is the curve of the pick. Downward curving picks stand in contrast to pick curves that start bending downwards and then reverse and curve back up at the end. Here's how those curves help and hinder different types of climbing.

When we are climbing on snow or a glacier, we may have to consider rope systems for both crevasse falls and the more standard falls that simply come from difficult climbing moves. Factor in maintaining a pace that can get us to the summit and back before conditions deteriorate, and we have a lot to consider. The full video goes deeper into how I begin to approach that complexity.

When we cross crevassed terrain, we often rope together to allow us, as a team, to catch a fall of a teammate. But that same strategy of being roped together might compound risk, not reduce it, if we use it on standard snow slopes. The full video goes deeper into why and the pros and cons of other choices we might make to alter our safety systems for the better.

The quad anchor is traditionally done with a doubled over sling and produces two different double-strand master points. But with a little creativity, we can create a raised shelf that sits higher than the lower master point.

On the way down from either an overhanging or traversing route, we can end up with a surprising danger right near the ground, when we typically feel safest. Let's talk about the hidden danger in tramming, or connecting ourselves to the belay's rope on descent so that we can stay close to the wall as we clean gear off of our route. The full video gets into what we can do about it.

The quad anchor is traditionally done with a doubled over sling. Well, if we have a 240cm sling, we have enough material to triple it over before tying our load limiting knots, raising our master points higher and adding three two-strand, load-limited master points to the setup. Here's how to do it.

Fibers with high-tensile-strength, resistance to cutting, and heat resistance are becoming more common in climbing cords and climbing ropes. Sterling PowerCord has a Technora core. The Mammut Core Protect has an aramid sheath between the outer sheath and the core. The Edelrid Swift Protect has aramid fibers woven into the sheath. Cutting these high tech cords and ropes aren't easily done using the old methods. The full video walks through two ways to cut these soft goods down that overcome the challenges of cut and heat resistance.

Ice climbers drill holes into the ice that connect at the back and then run cord or the rope through those holes to make "V-thread" anchors. While there are tricks to fish the cord, runner, or rope from the back of the tunnels, it is far easier to do with a "V-thread tool." Here's how to make a DIY version made from a wire hanger.

There is good reason to use a fixed point lead belay on ice climbs due to the traversing start of many routes. As a preview to our longer video of an ice climbing case study for fixed point lead belays, here's a discussion of why we used the Banshee anchor configuration on the climb.

Ice climbers will build several different kinds of "threaded" anchors, drilling holes into the ice that connect at the back and then running cord or the rope through those holes. It may feel like the names are used interchangeably, but they can have specific meanings and each of those different anchor types have their pros and cons.

New multi-pitch ice climbers, like new multi-pitch rock climbers, often follow many pitches before they ever lead. Those who are brand new to following an ice climb might find the nuances of cleaning ice gear to be time consuming or energy sapping. The full video gets into why it might feel that way and how we can be our most efficient to reduce those negative impacts.

As a community, we climb, we succeed, we fail, we learn, we climb some more. And the techniques evolve as we learn. Those changes to tools and techniques sometimes include modifying what was once foundational skills. Here’s an example of a change to what used to be standard rappelling technique that has evolved to a new best practice.

When and why might we want to choose a knot other than a flat overhand bend for joining two ropes in a climbing context? The full video explores alternative knots for joining climbing ropes. We demonstrate various climbing scenarios and knot-tying techniques, providing a practical how to guide for recognizing situations when a standard flat overhand may not meet your needs along with alternatives you may want to employ, improving your climbing safety.

While the flat overhand bend is typically considered the standard knot for joining two ropes and doing a double-strand rappel in a climbing context, there are times when it might not be the best choice. Here are a couple of situations when a different knot may be a better choice along with a how-to on tying two of those alternatives: the Half Gibbs and the Gibbs bends.

I was asked if the very light weight Petzl Tibloc could be used as a rope capture for crevasse rescue systems? The answer is, 'yes,' but not without acknowledging that unweighting a Tibloc can be complicated. The full video walks through one procedure to transfer the load from a Tibloc along with a discussion of how this may complicate crevasse rescue scenarios that need a lower.

When we are rappelling (abseiling) in high winds, yes we have to worry about getting the ropes down the route, but we also need to consider which strand to pull as we take our ropes down after the rappel. If we choose the wrong strand, we might end up with a tangle that can get our ropes stuck and unretrievable.