Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
Preview to: Improve Climber Communication with Extended Master Points On Moderate Terrain
The kind of blocky, ledgy terrain that we often see on moderate climbs presents both ample natural protection points as well as communication and rope abrasion challenges. Well, we can use the former to help mitigate against the later. The full video provides a few different methods for extending a belay stance and master point out when faced with a comparatively safe, but large and communication hindering, ledge.
What Quickdraw Lengths Do I Need for My Climbing Rack?
As we first get into climbing and start making our initial purchases of climbing gear, we may not know what we don’t know. So, when I got asked the question about choosing quickdraw lengths for a first climbing rack, I felt compelled to talk about tradeoffs rather than recommend a particular length.
Preview to: Slings, Prusiks, and Cord I Have Added to My Climbing Rack
As new materials are developed into climbing tools, and as my needs on my climbs have evolved, I've changed up some elements of my standard climbing rack. The full video goes deeper into some soft goods (slings, prusiks, and cords) that I have begun carrying on all my climbs including some pros and cons.
Blake's Hitch for Rock Climbers: Pros and Cons and How to Tie This Friction Hitch
The Blake’s Hitch has been used for many years by arborists, and is worth knowing as a climber because it allows one to tie a friction hitch with one end of the rope onto itself or with ropes of the same diameter. Here’s how to tie it along with some of its strengths limitations.
Use Cases and Limits of the Sterling HallowBlock 2 Sewn Climbing Prusik Loop
The Sterling HallowBlock2 is a sewn prusik loop for climbing that does some specific things very well but is limited in a few use cases. Here are some strengths and limitations of this piece of climbing kit.
Preview to: Six Tips for a Safer Counterbalance Rappel
If we feel the need to get down from a climb quickly, we may be tempted to employ a counterbalance rappel. That rappel technique does allow two rappels, simultaneously, so it is faster, but it adds risks that we need to mitigate. The full video offers six tips that will mitigate those risks.
Setting Our Prusik Cords Correctly for Ascending the Climbing Rope
If we are ascending the rope with old-school techniques, using just prusik cords, we need to remember that modern tools demand we set up the ascension system differently than old tools. So, the mnemonic “waist away,” can help us remember in what order to set up our prusiks on the rope.
Preview to: Having Too Short of Climbing Rope for a Rappel (Abseil) to the Next Anchor
While on rappel (or abseil), for several reasons we could end up with a rope that is too short to make it to our next safe rappel anchor using a standard two-strand rappel on a doubled-over rope. If we end up in that situation, we need a procedure to deal with things in a safe way. The full video offers such a procedure.
Foot Lock Climbing Rope Ascension Case Study: Just Because We Can Doesn't Mean We Should
Minimalism can mean added safety through simplicity. But when does minimalism go too far? Here we use an example of a foot lock and a single prusik for rope ascension. All you need for this setup is a single sling (or a sling and a carabiner). But it leaves us exposed to lack of redundancy on a friction hitch that can (and has) failed. If we were to choose something so minimal, what might we do to add safety margin to the setup? At what point does having more gear just make sense?
Preview to: Pass a Knot Lowering System When Lowing a Climber More than a Rope Length
In some circumstances, attaching two ropes together and lowering a first climber down on a single strand may be the safest way to descend a climbing route. If we do so, we need to be able to pass the rope-joining knot through the lowering system safely and efficiently. The full video provides two methods for doing so.
Tying a Rescue Seat from a Mountaineer's Coil for Climbing Team Self-Rescue
We can take the foundation of a basic Mountaineer’s Coil and turn it into an emergency rescue seat by making just a few modifications, and all of it takes no more than the climbing rope we already have with us.
Preview to: How to Make Four Different Climbing Rope Coils for Different Circumstances
There are many ways to coil our climbing ropes. Just like climbing knots, though, each coil method has its own benefits and drawbacks. The full video shares four different ways to coil a climbing rope along with a description of some circumstances when one coil method might prove a better option.
Some Pros and Cons and How to Tie the Valdotain Tresse, or VT Hitch, for Climbing
The Valdotain Tresse, or VT Hitch, is a friction hitch made using an eye-to-eye cord. It has some advantages over other friction hitches, but also some disadvantages. Here is a discussion of those pros and cons as well as a quick tutorial on tying the hitch.
Preview to: Four Hauls that Can Assist a Struggling Climber Through a Hard Move
If we are belaying a climber from the top on a multipitch climb, and if that second climber is unable to make a hard move, we can help them past the point where they are stuck by using a haul assist. The full video demonstrates four haul assists, from least complex (with limited assistance gained) to more complex and robust.
A Climbing Knot Variation on the Trucker's Hitch to Ensure Ease of Untying
When we tie our expensive gear down to a vehicle or a sled, we want to make sure that it is both secure and easy to get untied. Making a variation on the Trucker’s Hitch by using some climbing knots that are explicitly used to secure loads while being comparatively releasable can ensure that we accomplish both goals.
Preview to Descending a Taut Climbing Rope: Moving Down on Friction Hitches
If we have a climbing rope loaded below us (maybe a climber is unconscious and weighting the rope), we may not be able to attach our rappel device, or even if our device was attached before the rope got loaded, being on a "fireman's belay" might keep us from moving down. The full video shares how we can descend a rope when it is pulled tight below us.
Alpine Draws: How to Make Them and the Pros and Cons of Using Them on Your Climb
When we get into winding trad and alpine climbs, carrying a few alpine draws can add flexibility to our climbing rack. But there are also downsides to this tool of which we should be aware.
Preview to: Teaching New Climbers the Climbing Project Mindset
We introduced our kids to "projecting" a climbing route when they first started confronting routes they had considerable difficulty with. While there are many tactics that can help, the full video gets into how we began their education by focusing on the climb at three levels of progressive detail and then setting a mindset that helped redefine success criteria based on which level of detail we were focused on for a particular attempt.
Two Versions of a No-Knot Anchor For Harsh Climbing Conditions
When conditions get so bad that simply building and taking down an anchor can be a challenge, using a setup that only uses easy-to-undo hitches, rather than full knots, may make a lot of sense. Here are two variations of one such anchor set up.
Preview to: Learning to Lead Belay Takes More Than Learning the Mechanics
There is a lot of time and attention spent on climbing well and the climbing mindset, but what about the belayer? Particularly when on lead, belaying a climber can also be stressful, especially for those just starting out. How do we create a safe place to learn in a situation where mistakes aren’t normally acceptable? Here’s how we approached getting our new climbers (our kids) to lead belay.