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Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post

How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Clove Hitch vs PAS: What Every Climber Needs to Know

Another discussion that seems to get climbers strangely combative is the decision to clove hitch into an anchor or to use a personal anchor system, or PAS. Well, like most things, there are tradeoffs. Let's get into several of those tradeoffs which might tilt you to using one or the other system in a given situation.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Why You Should Switch to Rope Anchors (or Not!)

Climbers seem to get overly heated up when talking about things like using the rope to make our anchors or using slings, runners, or cords. Well, like most things, there are tradeoffs. Let's get into several of those tradeoffs along with some of the uses cases where I might use one solution over another.

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Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski

Watch This Before Building Your Next Haul System

When we build a climbing haul system, we will not be able to escape at least some friction in that system. A major point of friction will be at the progress capture connection, which helps hold the load strand so that we don't accidentally let back out any of the rope we've hauled in. Here's a comparison across different progress capture options to help inform which are more or less efficient.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Pick-Off Descent Positions: Find What Fits Your Situation

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Once we get to the climber, potentially their size and their injuries might dictate how to position them as we head down. Here are three options.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Fixed Lines and Climber Load Transfers | A Single Pitch Rescue Scenario

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. Here's how I worked around this issue when I was routinely climbing with climbers who were lighter than I am.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Injured Climber? Let's Escape the Belay

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. Here's an alternative first step that frees us from the belay so that we can get help or get another rope in place to get us to our climber in need.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Your Weight Difference Is Blocking the Pick Off Rescue

One of the standard rescue procedures in a single pitch scenario is the pick off, and it begins with the belayer ascending the belay strand to meet the climber that is on the wall. Well, when we have a significantly lighter climber than we have a belayer, that ascension cannot happen. Here's how we can identify if we will potentially have an issue.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Plaquette Pick Off Rescue Explained | Single Pitch Technique

In a single pitch scenario, with a belay coming from the ground either to a leader or a top roping climber, we can still end up with an injured climber on the wall who needs medical attention or assistance getting down. The pick off gets us up to the climber and gets both of us back down again. Here is the procedure when using a tube-style plaquette belay device.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Grigri Pick Off Rescue Technique

In a single pitch scenario, with a belay coming from the ground either to a leader or a top roping climber, we can still end up with an injured climber on the wall who needs medical attention or assistance getting down. The pick off gets us up to the climber and gets both of us back down again. Here is the procedure when using a Grigri or similar assisted braking belay device.

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Climbing Gear, Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski Climbing Gear, Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski

Multi-Pitch Routes Demand Better Rope Decisions. Here's Why.

Climbing in a team of two is quite often done on a standard, single rope. But when we are climbing multi-pitch routes with certain risks, there may be times when twin ropes or half ropes may help mitigate those risks. And certain alpine or mountaineering objectives may emphasize weight and rope management characteristics. Here's how I go about assessing the climb and matching it to a rope system.

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Climbing Gear, Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski Climbing Gear, Technical Climbing Gear Jason Kolaczkowski

Climbers Get This Wrong About Rope Specifications

Climbing rope manufacturers publish a lot of numbers that describe how the rope will perform out in the field. But the numbers don't actually tell as straight forward of a story as we may wish. Here's how we interpret those numbers and how they tell a story about the types of climbing risks one rope may mitigate better than another.

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How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (09) Jason Kolaczkowski

Crevasse Rescue: Micro Traxion Lower Technique

Adding on to our videos about crevasse rescue, we could have a situation where we set up a haul only to discover, after making contact with the victim, that we actually need to lower them, as there is a walk out possible from lower in the crevasse. Well, if we have a pully-and-cam based progress capture like a Petzl Micro Traxion already set up, we need to switch from raise to lower, and there could be some complications we need to consider.

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How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (08) Jason Kolaczkowski

The Most Dangerous Place to Cook on the Mountain

When we get into challenging climbing in mountain environments space, weather, and other constraints might necessitate that we get our calories in while in the relatively secure confines of our camping tent. How can we do that given all the risks that come from cooking with a camp stove when enclosed? Well, here's what you should never do.

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DIY Hanging Kit for Your Camping Stove

Most commercial hanging kits for camping, backpacking, and climbing stoves are minimalist and light. They can be because they typically fit integrated stoves - where the stove and pot couple securely. This improves safety by containing the flame and creating stability. Can we design a hanging kit for a non-integrated stove that will bring us a similar safety profile?

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