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Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post

How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Getting Your Gear Where It Needs to Go! Logistics Planning for Expeditions

For any expedition, whether to climb, trek, or do anything else, we’ve got to get ourselves and our gear to the right places at the right time. What we need for the travel segments will be different than what we need during the adventure portions of the trip, and we need to make sure that - as silly as it sounds - the people and the gear meet up when needed. That’s logistics. And there is a lot that goes into logistics planning for an expedition. Here's a mental model to help get us started.

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How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Want a Skinny, Light Tag Line on Your Rappel from a Climb? Consider These Risks, First

The proliferation of new light-but-strong materials has led to some questions about just how skinny and light a tag line (a static rope used just to retrieve your main rope) can be when used for a rappel (abseil). Well, there are some considerations that we need to keep in mind if we decide to save weight by going super light with a tag line. Here, we get into the risks we add as well as how to mitigate them.

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How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

The "Double Fix" Knot Pass Technique on Rappel (Abseil)

If we have a single point of damage on our climbing rope and need to rappel (abseil), two climbers can work as a team and use two different instances of fixing the rope to perform two different single-strand rappels. We then avoid having to use time-consuming knot passing techniques by avoiding, rather than passing, that knot. Here's how we do it.

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How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

It's More Than You Think! Why Modern Tools Help Ascending the Climbing Rope

It used to be the case that ascending the climbing rope was done using two soft goods wrapped around the rope with two friction hitches. That method requires that we put the waist prusik further up the rope than the leg loop. But modern tools have inverted that configuration. The major benefit of that setup is more than efficiency of ascent; it's much simpler to overcome a lip of rock or ice, now. Here's why.

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How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Six Climbing Friction Hitches and Their Pros and Cons

We use friction hitches in many different circumstances in climbing. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of different hitches can help us select the right hitch for the right situation. Here are six hitches that I turn to most frequently along with a discussion of their pros and cons so that we can better match a hitch to a need.

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How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

What is End Roping in Climbing? When Can We Use It and How Do We Do It Safely?

End Roping is a technique that allows us to move a climbing party of three quickly through moderate terrain without the fuss of more complicated rope systems. But there are risk mitigations we should implement to set the system up and there are circumstances when it would not make a safe option. Here's some information on when and how to employ an end roping system.

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How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (06) Jason Kolaczkowski

Improve Climber Communication with Extended Master Points On Moderate Terrain

The kind of blocky, ledgy terrain that we often see on moderate climbs presents both ample natural protection points as well as communication and rope abrasion challenges. Well, we can use the former to help mitigate against the later. Here are a few different methods for extending a belay stance and master point out when faced with a comparatively safe, but large and communication hindering, ledge.

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Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism Pack Review After 4 Years of Use

For nearly four years, I have been taking the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Prism pack for most of my alpine climbs, whether that be on rock, snow, or ice. After that long of throwing the pack on my back, here are some of the pros and cons that I've experienced while using it.

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I Didn't Enjoy Scrambling (Easy Rock Climbing) Until I Started Using These Types of Shoes

Ever hear climbers talk about “insecure climbing” and the fear that brings to them? Well imagine feeling insecure at every step up a rock face. This is what a scramble, which should be a fun romp, can feel like in the wrong footwear. Scrambles are examples of where approach shoes can really make a difference in our enjoyment of the outdoors. Here’s how their specific features combine to make such a big difference.

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How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Crossing Crevasses Safely: Three Techniques

When a crevasse is unavoidable and must be crossed on your glaciated mountain climb, the technique you and your team employ will often be dictated by circumstances. This video gets into three different procedures to be chosen and applied based on terrain slopes and crevasse sizes.

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How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Using a "Running Belay" to Simul-Climb on a Glacier has Pros and Cons

A “running belay,” a form of simul-climbing that is frequently used on snow climbs and climbs up glaciated peaks, helps mitigate certain risks, but it also adds new risks into the equation. Let’s talk about how a running belay is performed and what pros and cons result from employing this climbing tactic so that we can best decide when it may make sense to use.

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How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Spacing, Coils, and Brake Knots to Determine Glacier Travel Climbing Rope Length

Deciding how much climbing rope you need for glacier travel is a product of many factors. The number of teammates, the snow conditions, crevasse sizes, and preferred rescue systems are all inputs into how much space to have between climbers, how much length to keep in spare coils, and whether to have brake knots in the rope. All of that will calculate out to your total rope length. Let’s explore some of these considerations.

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How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Matching Climbing Systems to Glacier Travel Specifics to Reduce Risk

As we get deeper into a glacier travel series, we want to note that there are many effective ways to develop our climbing systems for safe passage on glaciated mountains. Maybe the single biggest thing we can do wrong, however, is get dogmatic about those systems and assume that, while risks change from glacier to glacier, our systems don't have to change as well.

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How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski How-To (05) Jason Kolaczkowski

Choosing the Best Carabiner for Connecting to a Rope on a Glacier Climb

We will frequently choose to connect ourselves to the climbing rope with a carabiner, rather than a knot, when on a glacier in order to facilitate things like crevasse rescue systems. We need to be considerate of the strengths and weaknesses of carabiner types in order to select the best carabiner for our climb of a glaciated peak. Here's some of the criteria I use to help me choose.

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