All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
Using a Remote Canister Stove in the WORST conditions with a DIY Hanging Kit
Remote canister stoves often improve stove performance in cold weather when compared to standard canister stoves. But remote canister stoves can be hard to use in the harshest environments when there is no means to safely hang the stove. Well, here's a DIY(ish) solution for that problem.
This DIY Hack Improves Your Canister Fuel Performance In COLD Weather
There are lots of ways to maintain a warmer temperature for your canister fuel, thus improving the performance of your camp stove when out climbing, backpacking, or camping in the snow. One way is using a bath for the canister, into which you can pour warm water. Here's how I made one and some options on how to use one.
Is the La Sportiva G-Summit the Most VERSATILE Climbing Boot?
The La Sportiva G Summit Boots are designed to be worn as either a single boot or a double boot with a removable liner. So, is it one boot that can serve all your needs? Warm enough for cold, high-altitude climbing? Light and maneuverable enough for technical climbing? How's the durability? What about the fit? Lets find out.
Keep Your Drinking Water from FREEZING! Practices from High Altitude Climbing
Depending upon your part of the world, winter climbing can bring extreme cold that can make the seemingly simplest things complicated. I got asked a question about how we stop our drinking water from freezing when temperatures dip into the extreme. We can borrow lessons from many high altitude climbers who regularly face those types of extreme temperatures.
Three Uses of the Bowline on a Bight Knot for Climbing in the COLD
When winter sets in, the cold, the gloves, and the snow and ice all make tying and - particularly - untying weighted climbing knots more difficult. So, easier-to-knots to untie can make transitions in and out of systems faster. Here's three ways that I start using a bowline on a bight when wet, winter weather shows up in the mountains.
Have We Been Rappelling WRONG!? A No Tether Multi-Pitch Rappel
While the "backside clove hitch" method of connecting to the anchor is getting more and more popular for ascending routes, we can extend that same thinking to a multi-pitch rappel. The method was developed to address the problem with managing knots in the ends of our rope, as we need to remove them to pull the rope but need to add back for the next rappel, which creates opportunities for mistakes. Here's how it works.
Contrasting Two Transitions from Climbing to Rappelling to Study Tradeoffs
Like the old "choose your own adventure" books, each climb we make presents many choices, big and small. Let's look at two different transitions, moving from climbing to rappelling in a team of two, to see how our choices impact the various risks we can both avoid and bring into play by those choices.
Why Our Climbing Family Doesn't Typically Counterbalance Rappel (Abseil)
Counterbalanced simul-rappelling is something expert climbers will do in unusual circumstances, and this gives the impression of relative safety. But in nominal climbing circumstances, what benefit are we really gaining? We break down the time-savings benefits so that we can weigh the costs.
Climbing is Adapting: Case Study of a Recent Climb When Things Did Not Go Perfectly
On a recent climbing trip, I forgot my harness, used up gear making an improvised harness, and was confronted with a cascading series of risk assessments and mitigations as a result. Here is a case study of a climbing day when things went fine but imperfectly, as many days climbing end up being.
Taking an Improvised Climbing Harness Up and Down Multiple Pitches: What I Made and Why
On a fairly recent climbing trip, I forgot my harness. That left me needing to improvise a harness or make the long trip back without getting on the rock. Here’s how I used a quad runner, a double runner, and three carabiners to make a harness that was redundant throughout and comfortable enough to go up and down a multi-pitch climb without noticeable discomfort.
Our Brake-Assisting Belay Device Can Fail! Three Plaquette Risks and Mitigations
Every piece of climbing equipment has its strengths and weaknesses. The tube-style plaquette devices I use a lot, because I am often climbing with both of my boys, are no exception. Here are three ways these devices can fail to break assist when in the wrong circumstances along with what we can do to mitigate those risks.
Beyond Visual Checks: How Climbers Can Use Weight Transfers to Check Safety Systems
We make sure our new climbing system (belay, rappel, anchor, etc.) can take your weight before we start taking apart your previous system as we move through a climbing transition. Kind of common sense, huh? Not very enlightening. But what if we take that same concept and apply it in less obvious ways. Can keeping a mental model of "weight the new system, first" keep us safer more generally?
Build Your Own Pulk Sled to Access Winter Camps or Big Mountain Climbing Objectives
Winter climbing trips are often extended from one to two day affairs, or even longer. Trailhead access can be further away as only main roads remain open. And then approach hikes take longer due to difficult conditions, as well. If we need more time out in the backcountry, and now need to set camps, we may want to haul, rather than carry in all that bulky, winter gear. Here is how to build a Pulk Sled that is light and efficient enough for those local trips but also robust enough to stand up to expedition rigors.
Backcountry Luxury: Making a Kitchen at Your Snow Camp Using a Pyramid Tent
If I'm going to be winter camping, on snow, in the same place for a while - think an expedition basecamp or a long-weekend outing - I will often make a dedicated kitchen in camp. With appropriate snow depth, a pyramid tent kitchen is my preferred version to make because it grants shelter, mobility, and better ergonomics. Here is more on why, and a lot more on how, I build them.
Our Climbing, Backpacking, or Trekking Expedition isn't Over Until We Do This Retrospective
No climbing, backpacking, or trekking expedition goes perfectly. We get some things in planning and executing the expedition just right, but we also don't do enough of some things (like, maybe, communication) or too much of others (like, maybe, overtraining). So, we like to enable continuous improvement by doing a facilitated retrospective on a completed expedition. What we learn from everyone's unique perspectives helps leverage strengths and avoid pitfalls when we head out on the next big trip.
Climbing, Backpacking, or Trekking: Expedition Team Dynamics Start with the Prep Work
Trust is key to any team endeavor, and belief in our teammates is just as key to an expedition's success. It doesn't matter if we are climbing, backpacking, or trekking. Multi-day adventures in the outdoors can hinge on our ability to lean on one another. Our family's trek of the Tour de Mont Blanc proved to be one example. The full video describes how the training we put into fitness and shared systems, which we have to do anyway, can be multiplied in the value they bring to expedition teams.
Getting Your Gear Where It Needs to Go! Logistics Planning for Expeditions
For any expedition, whether to climb, trek, or do anything else, we’ve got to get ourselves and our gear to the right places at the right time. What we need for the travel segments will be different than what we need during the adventure portions of the trip, and we need to make sure that - as silly as it sounds - the people and the gear meet up when needed. That’s logistics. And there is a lot that goes into logistics planning for an expedition. Here's a mental model to help get us started.
Mulit-Pitch Climbing Safety: Extending a Belay Away from the Anchor in an Exposed Position
In Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo’s book “The Mountain Guide Manual,” they discuss various systems designed to speed parties along technical terrain, including options for improving communication. When in blocky terrain, where a lead climber at a belay stance may not normally be able to see or clearly communicate with a following climber, they provide this option for safely moving the belay back from the anchor when in an exposed position so as to keep both the leader and the follower secure, and with better line of sight and communication, throughout the process.
Turn Your Climbing Rope into a Rescue Stretcher in Minutes
In Ian Nicholson’s excellent book “Climbing Self-Rescue,” he provides a description of this stretcher you can make even if you have no additional materials other than the climbing rope that you already have with you. When we are climbing fast and light and aren’t taking trekking poles, skis, or other solid objects with us, this is a handy technique to have available should an accident occur.
Ascending a Vertical Fixed Line Using Nothing But that Climbing Rope
I was asked if I could think of a way to ascend a single-strand, fixed climbing rope, using nothing but that rope. Well, I thought of one. Here's a video on the mental approach I took to solving the problem, along with a step-by-step guide. It serves no practical purpose, but it might be an interesting look at how we can take knowledge of system components and build a whole new system.