All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
Rappel Anchors on Snow Without Snow Pickets: the Snow Bollard and T-Slot Options
Snow is a highly variable climbing medium, which can make building climbing anchors a challenge. Most often, we use snow pickets. But, what if we don't have pickets with us? Here are a few options if we need to make due for a rappel but which would never be my first choice if pickets are available.
How to Build Basic Snow Climbing Anchors Using Snow Pickets
Snow can be soft, dusty, wet, or rock hard. Because of the variability of snow conditions, building climbing anchors into the snow can be challenging. Here is how to choose between and then build a few anchor types using snow pickets, the most common tool we see on show climbs outside of our ice axes and crampons.
Climbing Over Ice Bulges: How to Make These Risky Ice Climbing Moves Safely
Climbing over ice bulges can be the most risky part of an ice climb. More suspect ice and more challenging physics with our ice tools and crampons make these transitions from vertical to low-angle ice moments where we need increased understanding and concentration. Here's why these moves are risky and how we can mitigate those risks.
How to Make a Multi-Pitch Rappel (Abseil) Transition on Ice Climbs
Rappelling (abseiling) from the top of an ice climb on a multi-pitch route has a few additional considerations when compared to doing the same on rock. This video goes through the process of transitioning from one rappel to the next to ensure we manage ice fall, the rope, and climber safety.
How to Place an Ice Climbing Screw: Assessing Ice and Appropriate Technique
To manage ice climbing more safely, we need to be able to place ice protection, usually an ice screw, efficiently and securely. Both our ability to assess ice quality and use solid technique are key to placing strong ice screws. Here's how I approach placing solid ice screws.
Wrapping Ice Tools with 3M Gripping Material: the Ideal Tool Wrap for Ice Climbing?
An obscure material was developed by 3M, with an unusually high friction coefficient when two strips of it come into contact. It is purported to perform well when both wet and cold. It is available with an adhesive backing and also on a glove. So, could wearing the glove and wrapping an ice tool with the adhesive prove to provide superior grip when ice climbing? Today we talk about the material I am going to try out for this ice climbing season.
Gear Organization for Warmth in a Cold Camp on Your Alpine Climbing, Backpacking, or Camping Trip
When it comes to camping in the deep cold, staying warm is the ultimate goal. But did you know that organizing your gear in your tent can make a huge difference? Here are some tips on gear organization to maximize heat retention.
Choosing Between Single- and Double-Boots for Alpine Climbing and Mountaineering
Just like understanding the tradeoffs between single- and double-walled tents, it is equally important to understand the basic differences in single- and double-boots when we head up for an alpine climb or mountaineering attempt. While the differences between specific boots will be varied, there are some general differences between boots with and without removable liners that I keep in mind when selecting a boot for a climbing adventure. Here is what I consider when deciding what to put on my feet.
Split Finger Gloves/Mittens for Hiking, Backpacking, & Mountaineering
For over a decade, I've been using the same split finger gloves (or split finger mittens) as a compromise between the warmth of a mitten and the dexterity of a glove. They aren't right for every trip but I can use them in a surprising amount of situations. Here's a video on some of the pros and cons and how I choose when to use them.
Review of the Enlightened Equipment Accomplice 2-Person Quilt: Backpacking & Alpine Climbing
Famed high altitude mountaineer Ed Viesturs has used two-person quilts on the highest mountains in the world. Backpackers often use quilts, now, as a matter of course. So, my family has been using the two-person Enlightened Equipment Accomplice sleeping quilt for backpacking and for alpine climbing, both to add warmth (body heat of a second person) and cut weight (less per-person weight). This video offers a product review.
Canister Stoves in Summer Conditions: How Many Days Before Heavier, Efficient Stoves Make Sense?
If we are out on a backpacking trip or an alpine climb, we are already counting ounces. More efficient canister stoves tend to be heavier. So, how many days of fuel use need to happen before that efficiency and saved fuel pays off when compared to carrying a lighter, less efficient stove with, therefore, more fuel? We did a first test in summer conditions.
Should I Use a Single-Walled or Double-Walled Tent for My Camping, Backpacking, and Climbing Trips?
Camping comfortably can mean the difference between being restored every night of our camping, backpacking, or alpine climbing adventure, and reaching our goal, or slowly getting drained to the point where we have to quit. One of the first things to consider about our camp strategy is whether to take a single-walled or double-walled tent. Here are some of the pros and cons of each.
Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound Ultralight Backpack - Adding Load Lifting Straps Without Any Sewing
Not too long ago, I was asked about how I might be able to add load lifting straps to The Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound Ultralight backpack. Here's a walkthrough of how I did that.
La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II Jr Review for Trail Running, Hiking, and Scrambling
Our twin boys run, climb, scramble, hike, backpack, swim... you name it. We try to find items that can be used - and used well - across many different disciplines. We've been using the La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II Jr shoes for life on the trail as well as scrambling on the rocks. How well have they performed as trail runners, hikers, and approach shoes? Take a look at the full review.
Could Socks Be Hurting Your Toes!? A Case Study for Hikers, Climbers, & Backpackers
I had been on an approach hike into a climb when one of my toes started hurting. I hadn't knocked my toe against anything. I hadn't been heading downhill and impacted my toe against the front of my boot. What could have been causing it? Surprisingly, it was my socks. Here's how, and what I now do to prevent it.
Reviewing the Deuter Climber 22L Kids' Pack After 3 Years of Hiking, Backpacking, & Climbing
Our boys, now age 8, have been using the Deuter Climber 22 Liter Kid's backpack for over three years. It's been the pack they take on just about every hiking, backpacking, camping, and climbing adventure. So, with that much wear and trust put into the backpack, we thought it would be worth a review. Here's what we dislike, like, and love about this pack.
What is a Semi-Rigid, Extended Quickdraw? How and Why a Rock Climber Might Build and Use One
A semi-rigid, extended quickdraw is sometimes called a "cheater stick" for rock climbing, but it can be a good tool when we find ourselves on a sport route that has critical bolts placed just beyond our reach. It does introduce new risks that need to be managed, however. This video shares what this tool is, how we can use it safely, and how we can either buy or build one of our own.
Footwork for Efficiency & Safety on the Climbing Approach and on the Hiking Trail
Whether you are a climber on the approach to the climb or a hiker who is putting in miles on the trail, we want to be conscious about conserving energy and avoiding stumbles and falls. This is where a basic understanding of a few rock climbing footwork fundamentals can help keep us efficient and safe, which will matter a great deal after 10 thousand, 100 thousand, or even 1 million steps.
Passing Through: Four Days, Four Passes, and a Family of Four Backpacking on the Colorado Trail
I don't feel like my family and I should be pushing our limits with hard climbing all of the time. We had previously done a video about learning to find satisfaction with some of the less demanding forms of adventure so that our risk profiles aren't always high. Well, exposing the boys to backpacking was one of those experiences we wanted them to try and see if they enjoy. We made a short film about it.
Orienting Climbing Carabiners at Your Anchor: the Finer Points
Early in my climbing career, a mentor told me "...now we need you to start thinking about the 'working end' of your carabiners." He was talking about orienting my carabiners to maximize efficiency and safety. This video takes two case studies, attaching our carabiners to our anchor points and attaching ourselves to the anchor, to go into some of the subtleties of carabiner orientation.