Rock Climbing Safety and Rescue: Transitioning from Ascending the Rope to Descending
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“Know your gear.” This is something I try to remind myself all of the time.
My climbing gear isn’t like my smartphone… it’s not okay to not know how to use all of its functionality. With climbing gear, my life depends on this stuff. I need to know what it can do and what it can’t. Take a dyneema sling. Sure, it’s stronger than steel. But it is also brittle when catching a factor two fall; it also has a low melting point, making it prone to failure when using it as a sliding friction hitch (like a prussik).
That’s why our video lays out three different ways of transitioning from ascending to descending on a rope. We wanted to cover the different transitions steps that apply based on the gear that you are using.
The core elements of the gear we used in the video are:
Petzl Grigri+ (new version)
Petzl Tibloc (new version)
Sterling Hollow Block (19 inches)
Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling (120 cm)
Mammut Togir 3 Slide Harness (new model)
So, while the steps of an ascending to descending transition can be simple or more complex, it is because of the vagaries and nuances of the individual pieces of equipment. And there is no “best” and “worst” amongst the options. The most complex transition - that of a Micro Traxion - is also on the equipment that makes ascending the easiest. The easiest transition - on the Grigri - requires I buy a fairly expensive device. Gear always has tradeoffs, so the key is knowing what exactly I am trading off.
All that fine print stuff I ignore with my annual internet service agreement? The user manual that comes with my technical climbing equipment isn’t that. It’s worth reading.
And then practice. I practice the methods and machinations required to get the most out of my gear.
Again, knowledge is weightless, and - as it turns out - also necessary when mistakes can have high consequences.