All blogs
Every full length (longer than 60 seconds) video and accompanying blog post
Building a 6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue Haul System and Modifying It for Climbing Scenarios
Continuing our glacier travel series, we are showing the 6:1 drop loop crevasse rescue haul system and discussing how to modify it to meet some of the gear we may have, the rope we have available, and the status of the fallen climber.
Matching Climbing Systems to Glacier Travel Specifics to Reduce Risk
As we get deeper into a glacier travel series, we want to note that there are many effective ways to develop our climbing systems for safe passage on glaciated mountains. Maybe the single biggest thing we can do wrong, however, is get dogmatic about those systems and assume that, while risks change from glacier to glacier, our systems don't have to change as well.
Choosing the Best Carabiner for Connecting to a Rope on a Glacier Climb
We will frequently choose to connect ourselves to the climbing rope with a carabiner, rather than a knot, when on a glacier in order to facilitate things like crevasse rescue systems. We need to be considerate of the strengths and weaknesses of carabiner types in order to select the best carabiner for our climb of a glaciated peak. Here's some of the criteria I use to help me choose.
How to Pass the Knot While on Rappel (Abseil)
We isolate damaged sections of a climbing rope by tying a knot with the damaged section in the knot bight. That keeps any load - you - off of the damaged section. But if we need to rappel past a damaged section, we need to be able to get our rappel setup from above that knot to below it while staying firmly and safely connected to the rope. Here is a procedure to do that.
Three Rappel (Abseil) Extensions for Different Climbing Situations
Extending your rappel (abseil) device away from your harness after a climb comes with a number of benefits. But how we choose to make our rappel extension can make navigating certain kinds of anchors or rappels easier or harder. Here's three different extension configurations and some of the reasons why one might be a better choice for a given circumstance compared to others.
Three Rappel (Abseil) Setups for when You've Lost Your Rappel Device
You need to rappel (abseil), but you've dropped your rappel device down a climbing route. Here are three different rappel setups you can use in an emergency that don't require a device. There are pros and cons to each and so choosing the right one for the right circumstance may help reduce risk.
Making a Retrievable Snow Anchor for Rappelling (Abseiling)
If you are facing many rappels (abseils) and only have a limited number of snow pickets, you can construct a retrievable anchor so that you can reuse your pickets again and again. Here is one method for building that anchor.
Rappel Anchors on Snow Without Snow Pickets: the Snow Bollard and T-Slot Options
Snow is a highly variable climbing medium, which can make building climbing anchors a challenge. Most often, we use snow pickets. But, what if we don't have pickets with us? Here are a few options if we need to make due for a rappel but which would never be my first choice if pickets are available.
How to Build Basic Snow Climbing Anchors Using Snow Pickets
Snow can be soft, dusty, wet, or rock hard. Because of the variability of snow conditions, building climbing anchors into the snow can be challenging. Here is how to choose between and then build a few anchor types using snow pickets, the most common tool we see on show climbs outside of our ice axes and crampons.
Climbing Over Ice Bulges: How to Make These Risky Ice Climbing Moves Safely
Climbing over ice bulges can be the most risky part of an ice climb. More suspect ice and more challenging physics with our ice tools and crampons make these transitions from vertical to low-angle ice moments where we need increased understanding and concentration. Here's why these moves are risky and how we can mitigate those risks.
How to Make a Multi-Pitch Rappel (Abseil) Transition on Ice Climbs
Rappelling (abseiling) from the top of an ice climb on a multi-pitch route has a few additional considerations when compared to doing the same on rock. This video goes through the process of transitioning from one rappel to the next to ensure we manage ice fall, the rope, and climber safety.
How to Place an Ice Climbing Screw: Assessing Ice and Appropriate Technique
To manage ice climbing more safely, we need to be able to place ice protection, usually an ice screw, efficiently and securely. Both our ability to assess ice quality and use solid technique are key to placing strong ice screws. Here's how I approach placing solid ice screws.
Wrapping Ice Tools with 3M Gripping Material: the Ideal Tool Wrap for Ice Climbing?
An obscure material was developed by 3M, with an unusually high friction coefficient when two strips of it come into contact. It is purported to perform well when both wet and cold. It is available with an adhesive backing and also on a glove. So, could wearing the glove and wrapping an ice tool with the adhesive prove to provide superior grip when ice climbing? Today we talk about the material I am going to try out for this ice climbing season.
Gear Organization for Warmth in a Cold Camp on Your Alpine Climbing, Backpacking, or Camping Trip
When it comes to camping in the deep cold, staying warm is the ultimate goal. But did you know that organizing your gear in your tent can make a huge difference? Here are some tips on gear organization to maximize heat retention.
Choosing Between Single- and Double-Boots for Alpine Climbing and Mountaineering
Just like understanding the tradeoffs between single- and double-walled tents, it is equally important to understand the basic differences in single- and double-boots when we head up for an alpine climb or mountaineering attempt. While the differences between specific boots will be varied, there are some general differences between boots with and without removable liners that I keep in mind when selecting a boot for a climbing adventure. Here is what I consider when deciding what to put on my feet.
Split Finger Gloves/Mittens for Hiking, Backpacking, & Mountaineering
For over a decade, I've been using the same split finger gloves (or split finger mittens) as a compromise between the warmth of a mitten and the dexterity of a glove. They aren't right for every trip but I can use them in a surprising amount of situations. Here's a video on some of the pros and cons and how I choose when to use them.
Review of the Enlightened Equipment Accomplice 2-Person Quilt: Backpacking & Alpine Climbing
Famed high altitude mountaineer Ed Viesturs has used two-person quilts on the highest mountains in the world. Backpackers often use quilts, now, as a matter of course. So, my family has been using the two-person Enlightened Equipment Accomplice sleeping quilt for backpacking and for alpine climbing, both to add warmth (body heat of a second person) and cut weight (less per-person weight). This video offers a product review.
Canister Stoves in Summer Conditions: How Many Days Before Heavier, Efficient Stoves Make Sense?
If we are out on a backpacking trip or an alpine climb, we are already counting ounces. More efficient canister stoves tend to be heavier. So, how many days of fuel use need to happen before that efficiency and saved fuel pays off when compared to carrying a lighter, less efficient stove with, therefore, more fuel? We did a first test in summer conditions.
Should I Use a Single-Walled or Double-Walled Tent for My Camping, Backpacking, and Climbing Trips?
Camping comfortably can mean the difference between being restored every night of our camping, backpacking, or alpine climbing adventure, and reaching our goal, or slowly getting drained to the point where we have to quit. One of the first things to consider about our camp strategy is whether to take a single-walled or double-walled tent. Here are some of the pros and cons of each.
Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound Ultralight Backpack - Adding Load Lifting Straps Without Any Sewing
Not too long ago, I was asked about how I might be able to add load lifting straps to The Hyperlite Mountain Gear Unbound Ultralight backpack. Here's a walkthrough of how I did that.