How to Pass the Knot While on Rappel (Abseil)
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Search and Rescue team members often talk about “perishable skills.” Basically, the concept is that a skill that you don’t use frequently becomes something you forget. Most of the techniques used in rescue situations are classified as such; we just don’t do rescues frequently, so it is easy to forget them.
I would classify something like “passing the knot” as a similar skill. While it might not exactly be “self-rescue,” it is the kind of skill that, if you don’t have it when you need it, might demand that a rescue be called in. So, it’s kind of a rescue-preemption skill. What it has in common with self-rescue techniques, though, is that you are unlikely to need it very often, but when you do you really need it.
So, the key to avoiding the “perishable” part of “perishable skills” is practice. There are a number of climbing skills that are just a good thing to practice on a rotating basis, keeping them fresh in your mind and muscle memory. Crevasse rescue would be one. And, yes, passing a knot on rappel - using the procedure demonstrated in the video - is another.
For those of you who are well along in your climbing careers, think of this as a gentle reminder to carve out some time for those perishable skill practices, even if they don’t feel like the thing you want to do to get stronger, or do that hard move on my project route, or whatever. They may end up being the thing that prevents serious injury, or worse.
For those of you new to climbing, you don’t need a home climbing wall to practice this stuff (although it makes it easier). You can do this on the floor, in a horiztontal (rather than vertical) configuration. It won’t “feel” like the real thing, but you’ll get exposed to the sequences, and the sights, and the muscle movements (to a degree) that you need and which will be easier to do if really called upon should you have some level of comfort with them. You really only need four things: time, space, something you can pretend is an anchor, and the equipment.
For those who are willing to take me up on that call, here is the equipment I used for my practice. I trust you to supply your own hallway or living room or whatever ;)
Mammut Opjir Slide 3 Harness (next generation)
Mammut Dyneema Contact Sling 8mm (wide) 240cm (long)
Mammut Dyneema Contact sling 8mm (wide) 120cm (long)
Sterling 6.8mm (wide) Hallow Block 19in
Edelrid Aramid Sewn Cord (120 or 90 cm)
Petzl William Locking Carabiner
Petzl Attache Locking Carabiner