Short clips
Trailers to full length videos and stand-alone quick tips; everything we make that is under 60 seconds
N95 Masks for Backcountry Smoke on Your Camp, Hike, or Climb
In certain parts of the world, wildfires are becoming a worsening problem, and the likelihood of being impacted by smoke on our camp, hike, or climb is increasing. Smoke damage to our lungs can be a serious health issue, so we've taken steps to help mitigate that by leveraging a tool that we never used to have a few years ago but which is nearly ubiquitous now.
Use Cases and Limits of the Sterling HallowBlock 2 Sewn Climbing Prusik Loop
The Sterling HallowBlock2 is a sewn prusik loop for climbing that does some specific things very well but is limited in a few use cases. Here are some strengths and limitations of this piece of climbing kit.
Setting Our Prusik Cords Correctly for Ascending the Climbing Rope
If we are ascending the rope with old-school techniques, using just prusik cords, we need to remember that modern tools demand we set up the ascension system differently than old tools. So, the mnemonic “waist away,” can help us remember in what order to set up our prusiks on the rope.
Foot Lock Climbing Rope Ascension Case Study: Just Because We Can Doesn't Mean We Should
Minimalism can mean added safety through simplicity. But when does minimalism go too far? Here we use an example of a foot lock and a single prusik for rope ascension. All you need for this setup is a single sling (or a sling and a carabiner). But it leaves us exposed to lack of redundancy on a friction hitch that can (and has) failed. If we were to choose something so minimal, what might we do to add safety margin to the setup? At what point does having more gear just make sense?
Tying a Rescue Seat from a Mountaineer's Coil for Climbing Team Self-Rescue
We can take the foundation of a basic Mountaineer’s Coil and turn it into an emergency rescue seat by making just a few modifications, and all of it takes no more than the climbing rope we already have with us.
Some Pros and Cons and How to Tie the Valdotain Tresse, or VT Hitch, for Climbing
The Valdotain Tresse, or VT Hitch, is a friction hitch made using an eye-to-eye cord. It has some advantages over other friction hitches, but also some disadvantages. Here is a discussion of those pros and cons as well as a quick tutorial on tying the hitch.
A Climbing Knot Variation on the Trucker's Hitch to Ensure Ease of Untying
When we tie our expensive gear down to a vehicle or a sled, we want to make sure that it is both secure and easy to get untied. Making a variation on the Trucker’s Hitch by using some climbing knots that are explicitly used to secure loads while being comparatively releasable can ensure that we accomplish both goals.
Alpine Draws: How to Make Them and the Pros and Cons of Using Them on Your Climb
When we get into winding trad and alpine climbs, carrying a few alpine draws can add flexibility to our climbing rack. But there are also downsides to this tool of which we should be aware.
Two Versions of a No-Knot Anchor For Harsh Climbing Conditions
When conditions get so bad that simply building and taking down an anchor can be a challenge, using a setup that only uses easy-to-undo hitches, rather than full knots, may make a lot of sense. Here are two variations of one such anchor set up.
We Trade Off Risks: The Myth of Solutions in Climbing
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. I certainly have my preferred gear and techniques, but I find it is important to check my own biases and complacency by remembering that there are no pieces of gear or system techniques that remove all risks.
Celebrating Our Small Climbing Successes When Projects Get Hard
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. When we are climbing near our limit, we are likely to experience quite a bit of frustration and failure. Keeping in mind the incremental progress we make on our way to being a better climber and help remind us that we actually do experience many successes.
Curiosity is a Superpower in Climbing and in Life
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. I am constantly reminded by my young kids that being curious about the world and less dogmatic about our own "knowledge" can be a gift in many aspects of climbing and life.
Our Need for Continuous Learning in Climbing
For May’s Mental Health Awareness Month we get into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. One of the habits that is key to staying and enjoying climbing is continuous learning. Because the tools and techniques we use are constantly evolving, we need to make sure that we evolve with them or we risk using old techniques with new tools in a way that could limit our growth or prove unsafe.
Uphill or Downhill Hip? Positioning Our Glacier Travel Rope as a Case Study for Curiosity
We like to recognize Mental Health Awareness Month each May by going into some of the mental aspects of climbing and adventure. We can look at something like, “should I keep my glacier travel rope on my uphill or downhill hip” as a case study on why a curious mindset can sometimes beat an overly assured mindset. There are pros and cons to even something as simple as this decision, and a curious mindset helps us see those tradeoffs.
Crevasse Probing Technique at Camp
It's definitely a low risk activity compared to other situations on a big, glaciated peak. But it costs us very little in terms of time or energy to probe our camp for potential crevasse danger with a bit more safety in mind. Here's some technique tips.
When and How to Use the Plunge Step on the Descent of a Moderate Snow Climb
The plunge step is an age-old technique that still has its place in the mountains and is emblematic of the types of conscious decisions we alpine climbers may need to make even when it seems risks are very low. Here’s what I look for in terms of conditions that may make the plunge step beneficial along with the simple mechanics of the technique.
Performing the Rest Step on an Alpine Climb Approach or Mountaineering Expedition
The rest step is a simple tool in the alpinist’s tool box. Despite its simplicity, it can be the most effective thing we can do to modulate our energy expenditure so that we can save it for when we need it most
Why We Keep Our Mountaineering Ice Axe in Our Uphill Hand
When we are using our mountaineering ice axe in "cane" position, we want to keep it in our uphill hand. Here is why.
The Pros and Cons of the Garda Hitch, a Climbing Rope Capture Using Only Two Carabiners
The Garda hitch allows us to capture progress of the climbing rope through a haul system with only two, identical, snapgate carabiners. It's a good technique to have in case of emergencies, but it comes with some major downsides that limit the times I might want to use it.
Girth Hitching a Foot Prusik for Climbing Self-Rescue
A number of self-rescue techniques, across all types of climbing, require the use of a foot prusik to temporarily unweight the rope (usually when alternating weighting a waist prusik or other rope progress capture). It is very easy for that foot prusik to slide off of our foot, which slows us down and can be hard to get back in place if we are hanging in space. Simply girth hitching it to our foot can solve this problem.