Climbing Commands You NEED to Know for Safe Climbing
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Two point that, when combined, make the powerful case for the importance of communication.
Like I say at the outset of the video, the climbing partnership is a special one: it really is a matter of life and death.
And like I’ve said in another short video, it is unforeseen variables that create the most objective risk on climbs.
The first point is relatively self-evident. If a climber falls, the belayer must catch them or they get hurt (or worse). In other words, the partnership is dealing with high consequences. The second point, is about probability of something going wrong. If you think about it, the probability of a mistake or accident or any other negative occurrence goes way up if you don’t see the potential issue coming. If you can see an issue coming, you will take steps to reduce it’s likelihood or impact or, potentially, avoid the issue all together. It’s the unforeseen stuff, for which you haven’t made a plan, that creates the biggest problems.
Risk equals probability times consequence. The consequences of climbing accidents are relatively fixed. So, we get to try to influence probabilities. Well, if one of the elements of a potential issue that increases its probability is our inability to see the issue coming, what can we do to increase the number of things we “see coming”?
That’s where climbing communication comes into play. In the video, I talk about how the point of climbing communication is to make sure that both the climber and the belayer know something is going to happen before it happens. So, relate that to this point about probabilities. If both parties are able to anticipate the next event, the likelihood of a mistake goes way down.
Let’s take a simple element of a single-pitch climb as an example. The climber reaches the top of the route. If the climber and belayer don’t communicate and the belayer immediately starts lowering the climber, the climber might be in an awkward position, not yet ready to head down. The sudden drop could lead to a banged knee, a twisted ankle, or some other injury.
That’s why so much of climbing communication is call and response. One of the partners announces what is to be the next step, and the other partner confirms. We have verified that both people are ready and anticipating the next thing to happen. That confirmation of preparation keeps on partner from accidently surprising the other. That, then, is where the probability of a mistake is reduced.
So, starting our kids out by getting into the habit of simple call and response communication as is standard for top rope will help them once they take on bigger objectives. While the communication needs and timing may change as objectives advance, the need to ensure that both partners are always on the same page never will change.
Now, as a side note for the gear junkies, if you are wondering what belay device you keep seeing in the kids hands… we typically use the type of belay device that helps our kids catch a fall through mechanical assistance; these are usually called “assisted braking” devices. There are many types, but many climbers swear by the same one we use: