Learning to Lead Belay Takes More Than Learning the Mechanics

(This post may contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I’ll receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!)

I once had a climber I was belaying hit the ground. It was not a big deal in terms of the outcome, but it effected me greatly.

It was in the gym. He was on lead. He fell at the third bolt, which is only about two stories up (because gyms tightly bolt). He outweighed me. So, as he came down, his weight pulled me up, which is pretty standard. I held the rope. But the low fall point, difference in weight, and rope stretch meant that he (softly) hit the ground. He got back up, and proceeded to reclimb the route.

Again, no big deal.

But it kind of was a big deal. I spent a good bit of time analyzing what I would do differently (I decided to start clipping myself to a ballast anchor to add weight to me when belaying him). This is a long-time climbing partner of mine, and I felt like I let him down.

I’m not sure that I did let him down when doing a rational analysis, but nonetheless, the fall had an emotional impact on me. It took awhile before I trusted myself in catching low falls. I was always nervous until my climber got above (in the gym) the forth bolt.

It was with that memory that I wanted to ensure my kids had a safe place to learn this profound responsibility of providing a lead belay in a way that wouldn’t leave them with emotional scars. Lead belaying is actually pretty complicated, and they were going to make mistakes. Could we find a way for those mistakes to happen in a way that wouldn’t leave anyone hurt?

I think we did, and the video gets into our process.

I am sharing it because, from my own experience, I don’t think it applies just to kids. I think being able to take on risky things in a way that allows room for mistakes and learning is important for any new climber. So, maybe there is something in here for our adult readers/followers or their new climbing partners. Hope it helps!