Six Tips for a Safer Counterbalance Rappel

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You hear me talk a lot about risk tradeoffs. I am a firm believer in the simple concept that there are no “perfect” solutions that eliminate a risk in climbing. In essence, we are constantly choosing between risks. If we set up one system - say a rappel extension that moves our rappel device away from our harness - we are reducing a few risks: we can stay more upright when carrying a heavy pack, we can set up multiple devices on the same rope so that we can check each other, and the like. In fact you can watch a short we did on some of the benefits of a rappel extension.

But we also introduce new risks. Ideally, these new risks are “smaller” (less likely or less consequential) than the risks before we implemented the system, or why would we implement the system? In the case of extending a rappel device away from us, and example of a new risk is the possibility of having the extended device too far away from us to reach. If we end up needing to - say - switch from rappelling down the rope to ascending up the rope, we need to be able to reach our device. (And here is another video on that particular procedure.)

The point is that we need to focus our attention away from the risks that the system helps manage and towards the risks that the system introduces. I think of it like the “yin” and the “yang” of any particular system or setup. What the system does best directs our attention towards what the system does worst. That way we are mitigating risks in both ways, yielding an overall lower risk (if we do it right).

Of course, this video isn’t about rappel extensions (although they are used in the video). And this video isn’t about ascending the rope from a rappel. But it is a prime example of how a technique can create new risks and our thoughtful attention must be called to making the configuration of that particular system as fail-safe as possible by recognizing those new risks and taking appropriate steps. This video is “six appropriate steps” to make safer a procedure that can run into all sorts of problems if we don’t use at least some of these six risk-mitigating tips.

So, take a look, and maybe apply this mental model of “what new risks am I introducing by doing ‘X’” to other areas of your climbing and outdoor adventures. What new risks mitigations tactics might you end up wanting to add?