The "Double Fix" Knot Pass Technique on Rappel (Abseil)

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Is this simpler than passing the knot using the standard method?

In one way, I can argue, “no.” I could say that it’s more complex because we need to complete two rope fixes, potentially done out of ear-shot or eye-line from each other, and while demanding coordination across multiple people. The standard method is done with the entire system built in front of you, and each person on a team of two is fully in control of the entire procedure without being reliant on the other.

But, I could also argue, “yes.” There is far fewer steps, and each additional step is a potential fail point. It is also faster, and speed can equal safety if we are exposed to objective hazards like storms or rock fall or melting ice or whatever.

If pressed, I pall in the latter camp: the method demonstrated in this video is simpler and less likely to create mistakes. I figure it is analogous to the movement towards being lowered off of anchors in single-pitch sport climbing as opposed to rappelling. The many steps in transitioning from climbing to rappelling created a circumstance where rappels off of single-pitch sport routes were becoming the major contributor accidents. Using a lower means the climber is never off of belay and has to perform fewer steps.

If you buy my argument, then the key is proficiency. What good is a simpler method if we aren’t proficient at using it? In fact, it could be dangerous. Lack of mastery could lead to misapplication or a mistake in constructing the system or using the system incorrectly. So, there are three mechanisms of dangerous failure still hanging over us. So, like any new system, practicing it in a low-consequence environment is probably a wise step.

Further practicing under the tutelage of a mentor or guide likely makes sense, too. We often need to have someone else around to catch the mistakes that we can’t see (because we may not have the experience with the technique to see those mistakes).

I guess what I am saying is that I prefer simpler wherever I can. Less failure points means less failure (and failure could mean death in climbing). But I try not to let “simpler” lull me into a false sense of security. These systems are all high consequence and so I try to treat them all with respect. Respect, for me, means working towards fluency and then mastery of that system.

Every system. Every time.